Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i drove my car from work to a mates place, drove fine, turned it off. turned it back on about half an hour later, idled fine, drove out the driveway, gave it a bit of a squirt, came to an intersection and went to pull out and it started to choke and had absolutely no power and just died. i turned it back on and it was idling between 200-1500rpm going up and down. roll started it and drove it down the road, seemed to drive alright down the hill, then when i came to an uphill it died as i started to drive up the hill. its always had a problem doing hill starts due to what i think is a leaking injector. also im not running a tps cause its got an rb25 engine harness for some reason. but usually if im already rolling when i come to a hill its fine.

im going to swap over to the rb20 harness, and put some new injectors in it. just wondering if there's anything else i should check. cause it drove fine from work, only after i went to drive it again it shat itself.

:( hate cars!

OMG benm has an impostor!

I would start by looking for a boost leak, especially if it is not idling properly. there are lots of vacuum hoses and a single split could cause an issue.

so i drove my car from work to a mates place, drove fine, turned it off. turned it back on about half an hour later, idled fine, drove out the driveway, gave it a bit of a squirt, came to an intersection and went to pull out and it started to choke and had absolutely no power and just died. i turned it back on and it was idling between 200-1500rpm going up and down. roll started it and drove it down the road, seemed to drive alright down the hill, then when i came to an uphill it died as i started to drive up the hill. its always had a problem doing hill starts due to what i think is a leaking injector. also im not running a tps cause its got an rb25 engine harness for some reason. but usually if im already rolling when i come to a hill its fine.

im going to swap over to the rb20 harness, and put some new injectors in it. just wondering if there's anything else i should check. cause it drove fine from work, only after i went to drive it again it shat itself.

:( hate cars!

Wut?? what good would an RB20 harness do? Why doesn't it have a CAS?

+1 for intercooler piping leak.

Afm dude had same problem idal hunting like crazy no power then al of a sudden all is fine untill it does it again . Mine also would hit like a miss that sounded a bit like a rev limited at about 4,xxx rpm. My idal was between 800-1500 and would go up then like stall then Kik up then drop so annoying but Afm was my problem. Try throttle body cleaner or some sort of contact cleaner . Or replace also check Afm plug

It happened just after

...gave it a bit of a squirt...

didn't it?

You have a significant air leak after the AFM and before the throttle body. Probably popped an intercooler piping connection.

well the rb20 harness may be useful as i have an rb20? and i need the tps (throttle position sensor) as it controls alot of things.

could a leak pop up that quick?

In an R33?

i pulled the pod off, fully covered the afm and it didnt even try to die. just kept idling away fine. managed to narrow the leak down to somewhere between the afm and turbo outlet. pulled all the piping off and no splits or anything. so i have no idea where it could be coming from? also for a while it would idle like shit, going between 200-1500. then when i unplugged the afm it idled smooth and consistant?

Blowing smoke at all?

Grab a multimeter and check your AFM. The Nissan FSM has the instructions - you just check the signal pin on the afm to earth (engine/body) to see what voltage its reading. 0.3v ign on but not running, and something like 1 or 1.1v while running. Easy peasy and will rule that out.

Next find your consult plug in the drivers kick panel / fusebox area, and do the ecu self diagnostics. again, instructions in FSM. This will give you some flashes on the dash to tell you what the ECU reckons is wrong. Match the flashes up to the chart in the FSM and go from there.

If there is no flashes, then it's probably an air leak.

You have a compressor and an airgun?

Take your air filter off and use duct tape or something to seal up the end, unplug a vac hose in the intake system (before throttle body), and shove the air gun in there and let er rip. You could also rig up a tyre valve to do it with a tyre inflator but that's more effort.

Anyway you'll want a friend to help you find the air leak. try wetting your palm and holding it around the joins of the IC pipework. also with the engine off and intake pressurised, you will likely just plain hear it hissing out.

I think the last thing could be a borked IACV thing - maybe its jammed open/closed or something, don't know too much about how that works whistling.gif

unplug the AFM when the car is running, if the engine is still running then it could be AFM....car is meant to die straight away when unplugged.

Also because you gave the car a squirt you could of blow a piping off or a slightly came off....normally when IC piping comes off you will know about it lol gives a big bang

it could possibly be my air flow meter? although i've got two different ones and i've tried them both and nothing changes, and i wouldnt have thought they'd both be rooted. just after it happened my car was idling really weird, so i unplugged my afm and it started idling fine, then plugged it back in and it died. its at the mechanics now. they're going to go over everything, flush out the fuel rail, check injectors and replace o-rings.

i took off every single bit of piping and no leaks or cracks in the piping or joiners. all manifold bolts are fine and not warped. its currently not running a tps but the plug is in place, just needs wiring up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...