Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everything looks to be in the right spot. will have a close look when i put my new front pipe on.

Not what I mean as such. Everything might be in the right spots, but that doesn't mean the exhaust isn't pulling downward on the turbo. When I had my front/dump pipe fitted, the place doing it didn't bother welding on any supports around the cat to hold the middle of the exhaust system up. This meant that after the turbo, the first thing holding my exhaust off the ground was all the way back just in front of the rear axle. I don't even want to imagine the stress the turbo would have copped each and every time I hit a bump/went over a dip in the road.

Make sure there's something supporting the weight of the exhaust piping around the cat, and preferably NOT one of the rubbing mountings (as they still have give in them, defeating the point so close to the turbo. If you do have something, then I suppose that would more or less rule this theory out. Good luck though!

wow, never seen it before mate. it is nasty. I can't see how missuse could do that, and as you said you don't mistreat the car anyway. poor casting, or most likely come contaminates in the casting process. bugger!

be careful with the ezi-outs. many times I've seen a broken stud with a broken ezi-out in there..... and being really high tensile when the ezi-outs break they are fking hard to drill out and remove.

be careful with the ezi-outs. many times I've seen a broken stud with a broken ezi-out in there..... and being really high tensile when the ezi-outs break they are fking hard to drill out and remove.

i've done that, made it impossible with the motor still in the car. luckily it snapped off far enough in to get a new stud infront of it and loctite it in.

If u do have some seized studs loctite make a freezing agent in an aresol can that I found helpful on exhaust studs. When u spray it into a snapped stud the stud shrinks because the spray has a contact temperature of minus 30 degress. Made seized studs great to get out. Shrink it. Wd40 it. Shrink it. Wd40 it and then start winding the ezyout. Obviously drill ur hole first though

If u do have some seized studs loctite make a freezing agent in an aresol can that I found helpful on exhaust studs. When u spray it into a snapped stud the stud shrinks because the spray has a contact temperature of minus 30 degress. Made seized studs great to get out. Shrink it. Wd40 it. Shrink it. Wd40 it and then start winding the ezyout. Obviously drill ur hole first though

Thanks for the tip. I start on it 2moro. Parts arrived from justjap today, they sent me the wrong front pipe

but no big deal, it's not essential.

If u do have some seized studs loctite make a freezing agent in an aresol can that I found helpful on exhaust studs. When u spray it into a snapped stud the stud shrinks because the spray has a contact temperature of minus 30 degress. Made seized studs great to get out. Shrink it. Wd40 it. Shrink it. Wd40 it and then start winding the ezyout. Obviously drill ur hole first though

Can you use this stuff on unbroken bolts? I might change 4 bolts which hold the turbo when I fit the new one onto the car. If I spray it with this shit and it shrinks the bolt, I imagine that with wd40 and two nuts it would be a piece of piss to take it. By the sounds of it, I could take it out by hand lol.

Does it cause any stress on the bolts and make them more prone to snapping though?

I am more than confident you got it wet when at opperating temp.

Drove thru a puddle, used the hose, etc etc. That would do it.

Poor casting from the factory is the only other aspect I would dare accuse, both are just shit luck. Loose bolts or poor support are both non events when it comes to a cast item.

Question: do you remember what you were doing right before it cracked and made the aweful noise?

No idea, i only noticed it when i started the car one morning and drove too

work.

May have started a long time ago when it started ticking, it wasn't that loud

and i just put it down to tappet noise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...