When I Break Something...

[Trozzle]

  On 17/03/2011 at 7:29 AM, Doobs said:

Everything looks to be in the right spot. will have a close look when i put my new front pipe on.

Not what I mean as such. Everything might be in the right spots, but that doesn't mean the exhaust isn't pulling downward on the turbo. When I had my front/dump pipe fitted, the place doing it didn't bother welding on any supports around the cat to hold the middle of the exhaust system up. This meant that after the turbo, the first thing holding my exhaust off the ground was all the way back just in front of the rear axle. I don't even want to imagine the stress the turbo would have copped each and every time I hit a bump/went over a dip in the road.

Make sure there's something supporting the weight of the exhaust piping around the cat, and preferably NOT one of the rubbing mountings (as they still have give in them, defeating the point so close to the turbo. If you do have something, then I suppose that would more or less rule this theory out. Good luck though!

[Doobs]

Thanks Troy, i'll check it out.

[ARTZ]

  On 17/03/2011 at 8:30 AM, Simon-R32 said:

lol turbo timer not needed for track cars either. 1 cool down lap + idle into pits and then shut it down is just fine

yeah highly unlikely it would be the cause ,I was just throwing ideas around as i do

[battery]

  On 17/03/2011 at 6:59 AM, Simon-R32 said:

put it down to casting failure....

This...

[marksuxass]

I did an exhaust manifold on a yd25 navara at work a few months back, the thing cracked much like yours. Found the bracket that supports the turbo to the block was missing.

[Beer Baron]

wow, never seen it before mate. it is nasty. I can't see how missuse could do that, and as you said you don't mistreat the car anyway. poor casting, or most likely come contaminates in the casting process. bugger!

[Tangles]

yeah mine cracked in half around 4yrs ago.

sounded like a tractor and had no ooomph.

just one of those 'things' that happen

[Doobs]

Thanks Rich. I managed to score a free manifold off a mates old motor.

Studs and gasket on the way from justjap. Just got to learn how to use ezi outs.

[Doobs]

Thanks Tangles. I see a pattern forming. Was your car stock?

[Beer Baron]

be careful with the ezi-outs. many times I've seen a broken stud with a broken ezi-out in there..... and being really high tensile when the ezi-outs break they are fking hard to drill out and remove.

[JonnoHR31]

  On 21/03/2011 at 3:15 AM, Beer Baron said:

be careful with the ezi-outs. many times I've seen a broken stud with a broken ezi-out in there..... and being really high tensile when the ezi-outs break they are fking hard to drill out and remove.

i've done that, made it impossible with the motor still in the car. luckily it snapped off far enough in to get a new stud infront of it and loctite it in.

[Doobs]

Thanks guys, might not need ezi outs yet. I'll see how bad it is once i get the manifold off.

[Simon-S14]

  On 21/03/2011 at 3:15 AM, Beer Baron said:

be careful with the ezi-outs. many times I've seen a broken stud with a broken ezi-out in there..... and being really high tensile when the ezi-outs break they are fking hard to drill out and remove.

pricks of a thing hey...

[tm_r33]

If u do have some seized studs loctite make a freezing agent in an aresol can that I found helpful on exhaust studs. When u spray it into a snapped stud the stud shrinks because the spray has a contact temperature of minus 30 degress. Made seized studs great to get out. Shrink it. Wd40 it. Shrink it. Wd40 it and then start winding the ezyout. Obviously drill ur hole first though

[Doobs]

  On 21/03/2011 at 11:55 AM, tm_r33 said:

If u do have some seized studs loctite make a freezing agent in an aresol can that I found helpful on exhaust studs. When u spray it into a snapped stud the stud shrinks because the spray has a contact temperature of minus 30 degress. Made seized studs great to get out. Shrink it. Wd40 it. Shrink it. Wd40 it and then start winding the ezyout. Obviously drill ur hole first though

Thanks for the tip. I start on it 2moro. Parts arrived from justjap today, they sent me the wrong front pipe

but no big deal, it's not essential.

[Doobs]

So this is the result boys. Turns out the manifold was in 2 pieces. Looks to

have blown a small chunk out.

The cracks have followed the cast lines.

[SargeRX8]

  On 21/03/2011 at 11:55 AM, tm_r33 said:

If u do have some seized studs loctite make a freezing agent in an aresol can that I found helpful on exhaust studs. When u spray it into a snapped stud the stud shrinks because the spray has a contact temperature of minus 30 degress. Made seized studs great to get out. Shrink it. Wd40 it. Shrink it. Wd40 it and then start winding the ezyout. Obviously drill ur hole first though

Can you use this stuff on unbroken bolts? I might change 4 bolts which hold the turbo when I fit the new one onto the car. If I spray it with this shit and it shrinks the bolt, I imagine that with wd40 and two nuts it would be a piece of piss to take it. By the sounds of it, I could take it out by hand lol.

Does it cause any stress on the bolts and make them more prone to snapping though?

[GTScotT]

I am more than confident you got it wet when at opperating temp.

Drove thru a puddle, used the hose, etc etc. That would do it.

Poor casting from the factory is the only other aspect I would dare accuse, both are just shit luck. Loose bolts or poor support are both non events when it comes to a cast item.

Question: do you remember what you were doing right before it cracked and made the aweful noise?

[Doobs]

No idea, i only noticed it when i started the car one morning and drove too

work.

May have started a long time ago when it started ticking, it wasn't that loud

and i just put it down to tappet noise.

[Doobs]

Hey guys,

just wondering if anyone knows of a mobile stud remover bloke in the Gympie QLD area.

I have no hope of getting them out myself.

Cheers

Simon