Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently my car is having lots of problems, this could be related to my AFM maxing out. I am running a unichip ecu, and we think that at over 5500rpm, the afm maxes out, and hence pulls shitloads of timing. Therefore im gettin a power curve which looks like a zig zag loosing +- 20-30 rwkws.

So my quesiton, is there any way to fool the afm so that the ecu reads a lower voltage. Is it possible to put some resisitors in the circuit or anything like that?

I will be searchin for an answer. It seems everyone just upgrades to a z32, but im not entirely sure a z32 will work with the standard ecu and unichip. If i cant resolve this problem, i wil have to purchase another ecu, and all my hard earned $$ will go down the drain :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35794-fooling-air-flow-meter/
Share on other sites

from what ive been reading, units like the safc trick the ecu by modifying the voltage of the afm signal. Since the Unichip has pre programmed units set for ign and fuel, why cant i just put a few resitors in the voltage signal wire so that the ecu will always only see a few volts less then what is actually happeing. Even thou the afm is still maxing out, the preset figures will not be over ridden by the ecu.

anyway i will post some dyno graphs so u can see what i mean.

I sounds as though you just need to find a decent Unichip programmer. Isn't there two in Adelaide- the one you dont like and another-blackwood dyno and service? I dont really know anything about the Unichip but considering the hype and marketing, cant it be configured to read TPS and RPM? I think having this and then adding resistors (you would need two in a voltage divider configuration, with large values so as to not load the AFM output) is a bit of a band aid....Either way you would still have the voltage clipped, albeit at a lower value when the AFM runs out of resolution.

Well i will speal to blackwood auto and dyno and also speak to unichip. Basically i know of another r33 similar mods and power that also ran into a brick wall like i did at this power.

It seems that even thou the unichip is an intercepter, somehow the ecu can still override the settings on it.

boj01: z32 and r33 afm are both same size in diameter. Also im not sure if the z32 can be compatible with standard ecu. Also why would i want a safc when i have sometihn that both tunes fuel and ign with shitload more resolution then what a safc has. The only beneift of the safc would be that it is compatible with the z32 afm.

I was thinking the same thing about adding a resistor, it would obviously effect the whole rpm range, so during closed loop, the car would not run well i assume. can u explain to me how to setup a variable rate resistor, as i have done basic elec eng, but as im a mech eng, we only did basic elec shit.

thanks guys

What your looking for is a boost cut defencer (I think that's what their called).

Say your AFM max's out at 5.1v, what this thing does is it clamps the voltage at say 5.0v so it never max's out. Under this voltage it runs as normal.

But this is really a band-aid fix.

When you start maxing out the AFM the stock ECU will always pull timing, and you won't be able to over ride this totally with the unichip as it doesn't always happen.... If it did it ALL the time, then you could tune the unichip to override it, but it doesn't :P

By the sounds of it, you have just about reached the limit of the unichip/stock ECU combo....

I'm pretty sure Matt (whatisname) had the same problems.

J

I dont think there is any cheap/simple/nasty way to implement a sophisticated enough programmable 'variable rate resistor' without ending up with a microcontroller circuit. By this stage you will have re-invented the wheel and created an interceptor like the Unichip itself.

Enrico,

From memory the Unichip can only alter the signal by say +- 10degree igntion or similiar for the afm.. Hence why the afm most probably still hits a brick wall and why the z32 afm wont work with it as there isn't enough adjustment..

Don't quote but from memory when I looked in to a piggy back when I first bought my car that is what I was told.

Hi Enrico,

I had the same problem as you....

My r33 had a big loss of power around 5000 rpm, took me about a month to work it out (soo annoying).

All I did to fix my problem was find a friends AFM (which happened to be re-conditioned unit) and swap it with mine.. what a difference it made (I could feel it on the road).

I have attached my dyno graph to show you. The lower of the two lines is with my old AFM.

From what I remember it costs about $150 for a re-conditioned AFM.

Regards

Rob

ps. not saying this will fix your problem, but for the price......

I would be suprised the RB25 AFM would be maxxed out at 200rwkw?

Cos with my SR20 AFM, its not even close to getting maxed out at 183rwkw. IIRC, last time i checked, it was about 4.6V at peak power, and this is for an AFM for a smaller motor?

And the unichip would obviously reduce the voltage at certian rev ranges to get the right AFR, just like any other interceptor would, so you can get the Unichip ppl to do so accordingly, to banaid around the maxed AFM, if it really is.

Hi Enricho, time to stop guessing, can I strongly suggest you connect a multimeter up to the AFM and go for a drive, have your passenger read off the voltage. This will answer the question as to whether or not your AFM is reading max voltage (5 volts) in less time than it took me to write this post.

I can tell you I have seen cars with 250 rwkw without any AFM problems and someone else will say they have seen cars that do it at 180 rwkw. The truth is, every car is different, the only way to know for sure is to measure it.

If you don't have a multimeter, then borrow one or buy one from Dick Smith, they cost $10 for one that will do this job and thousands of others around the car. Cheap, usefull tool.

Hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...