Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have moved the discussion off the Dyno results thread.

We have been recommended to drill out our turbo oil restrictors to 3mm once going to a bushed core highflow, I only found this out after Aaron's failure. I have been running the stock 1.2ish mm restrictor with my old turbo for well over a year and the shaft play is fine so I doubted the info but every turbo swap I have done now has included the drilling of this banjo to 3mm.

I dont think the BB cores require it but Aarons core failed almost straight away. I can only assume the reason his stock turbo and then his BB highflow failed was from gunk blocked in the hole. (it was very mucky inside the banjo when I drilled it out.)

I am still running the stock restrictor in mine as I have gone back to the stock turbo temporarily. My restrictor was clean inside but I recently flushed it and I have always changed my oil before 5k. Perhaps it is slack servicing while in Japan that causes the block to dirty up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358131-m35-banjo-restrictor/
Share on other sites

Great info, thanks Scott.

Like you say, it may just be that the stock turbo can handle more boost if they get the proper supply of oil. I'll be checking for any gunk in mine ASAP.

Its only a theory, and it will definitely shorten it life still. I say to anyone buying an M35 to keep some cash aside for what will eventually happen.

If I can save one person's turbo though, by explaining this oil issue, i'm a happy man. :)

it will shorten the life, i ran my stocky at 20 psi and it took just under 6 months to blow up.

but who knows whether it was being starved, i'de say the BB core was, it make a loud whining noise from the word go.

but the stock turbo's power was very impressive!

you ran 20psi for 6 months with a factory turbo?? and other mods to help support it?

hmm.. maybe ill add a couple more psi! :)

how hard is it to drill out the restrictor? would you recommend it for a standard turbo setup?

Edited by Sage222

lol, wait till I have worked out the Garrett install just in case. >_<

The stock turbo shouldn't need any more flow, would it hurt? Im not sure, I dont think it would damage anything, if there is too much flow it may get past the seals and burn in the dump. Its not too hard to get the banjo bolt out, and easy to drill in my lathe but it can be a pain to line the banjo back up to get it all back together and if the bolt isnt straight it will munch the thread. (cast alloy sump)

The stock setup will run out of injector fairly early, if you plan to bump it up, get some way of adjusting the mixture and timing. (Emanage) You will make a much greater gain then.

you ran 20psi for 6 months with a factory turbo?? and other mods to help support it?

hmm.. maybe ill add a couple more psi! :)

how hard is it to drill out the restrictor? would you recommend it for a standard turbo setup?

yeh as scott said. it probably isnt advisable, i was just a young p plater then and all i wanted was boost and a loud PSSHHH sound.. ive grown up now..

lol

i didnt realise i wouldve maxed my injectors duty cycle, and probably considered myself lucky i didnt break things(more than the turbo)

i probably wouldnt drill out the restrictor, incase you need to go back for whatever reason, or drill it out to much..

im happy with my set up now, i just want to run lower boost now, but cant with the wastegate size being a tad bit too small - didnt realize 1-2mm of wastegate, would make such a difference.

yeh as scott said. it probably isnt advisable, i was just a young p plater then and all i wanted was boost and a loud PSSHHH sound.. ive grown up now..

lol rofl.gifrofl.gifrofl.gifrofl.gif

i didnt realise i wouldve maxed my injectors duty cycle, and probably considered myself lucky i didnt break things(more than the turbo)

i probably wouldnt drill out the restrictor, incase you need to go back for whatever reason, or drill it out to much..

im happy with my set up now, i just want to run lower boost now, but cant with the wastegate size being a tad bit too small - didnt realize 1-2mm of wastegate, would make such a difference.

I'm surprised your turbo builder didn't think of that since his not just a machinist! :P on a more serious note...I'm surprised your turbo builder didn't think of that

P.S. You might want to add "running E85" in your signature! :P

Edited by Jetwreck
  • 4 weeks later...

I'd really like to check out the banjo restrictor as the whining has been getting louder from my turbo (the whining has been getting louder from the passenger seat since the new exhaust aswell but that's a different story......)

I've read that the restrictor is on the block but where is it exactly? Should I approach it from the top or from underneath?

Hopefully checking this and doing a flush will extend the life of my turbo a little.

I'd really like to check out the banjo restrictor as the whining has been getting louder from my turbo (the whining has been getting louder from the passenger seat since the new exhaust aswell but that's a different story......)

I've read that the restrictor is on the block but where is it exactly? Should I approach it from the top or from underneath?

Hopefully checking this and doing a flush will extend the life of my turbo a little.

theres two bolts. one to the turbo, and one on the engine sump or block.. find the line on the turbo and trail this to the block.

the banjo on the block has the restrictor and will need to be checked.

im thinking it was the cause of mine blowing up the 2nd time. If you can save it, thats a plus.

Once its whining the bearings are shagged so its only a matter of time before the rear wheel contacts the housing and smashes itself to pieces unfortunately. You may get a few more months out of it, perhaps a lot more if you drive conservatively. (Yeh right. :))

  • 7 months later...

I'm getting myself prepared to drill a bigger hole 1.5 - 2mm and I just wanted to find out the correct procedure for this...

Would it be ok to use a table vice and a cordless drill ?

It would be appreciated if someone could give me detailed information in how to drill this hole.....

thanks in advance...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...