Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

good idea guys:D

ok i ask the first question...

i got a a31 cefiro...if i wanna get a r32 gtr brake mater cylinder, clutch master/slave cylinder and cluchpedals in there will it just fit or does it need some modification?

i got a cheap offer from a guy which is breaking his gtr,...i saw somewhere gtst will fit straight but i'm not sure about gtr?

  • 2 weeks later...

lol damn, was some misinformation d1nz!!!

got the stuff from the gtr now but clutchslave won't fit rb20 gearbox, clutchmaster is too big and won't fit in the stock-clutch holes, gotta drill some new holes or just a stock cefiro clutchmaster...

clutchpedals fits surprised straight on, but the pedal is too near to the brakepedal what makes it stupid, gotta bend the pedal a bit out of the way from the brake.

on my A31 the driver sits on right side, don't know maybe there's a difference that the stuff i got didn't fit...

gtst stuff will fit, gtr has a clutch booster and it may be the pull type not push for the slave which is what u need. gts4/gtr clutch slave has different mounting holes so u cant use it.

gtr brake master will bolt on other then the extra oil port for the abs, you can get it working on non abs somehow.

lutchpedals fits surprised straight on, but the pedal is too near to the brakepedal what makes it stupid, gotta bend the pedal a bit out of the way from the brake.

are you using the auto brake pedal? if so DONT use it the way it is, u cud remove it and grind it down.

Edited by Dan_J

lol spended 100 for the clutch master/slave and can't use it,...but who gives a shit? now i know if for the next time:D

btw i already cut the brakepedal and grinded it,...the problem is the gtr got a booster which needs space so nissan bend the clutchpedal to the right to let it sit near the brakepedal as usual...cefiro got no booster so all is a bit more together, fixed it easy, hit the pedal with the hammer to get the bend off now its straight and clutching is fun:D

Standard RB20 item mate. The SR ones are different. Could maybe make it fit with some modifying / creating your own bracket to mount it, and then make up new lines, but for $50-$100 + Freight (at most), why bother ?

Quiet old units now, it might be worth hitting up Nissan, or see what's available aftermarket (Bosch, maybe??) - newer is better.

  • 2 weeks later...

There's 2 surrounds, total 4 pieces.

One surround is fixed to the collumn (section with the key barrel) the other section moves inwards and outwards with the telescopic adjustment (fixed to the section with the wiper/headlight stalks)

Interchangeable with C33 Laurel.

I've got those left over from my halfcut in brown, I'll try find them and dye them black if you want them, PM me if interested.

Standard RB20 item mate. The SR ones are different. Could maybe make it fit with some modifying / creating your own bracket to mount it, and then make up new lines, but for $50-$100 + Freight (at most), why bother ?

Quiet old units now, it might be worth hitting up Nissan, or see what's available aftermarket (Bosch, maybe??) - newer is better.

Will an RB25 or 26 compressor fit? Might be worth getting one from a newer car that supports R134a natively. (Hychill is illegal in the UK, sadly)

Yeah they'll fit but other models might have different fittings for the lines on the actual compressor itself.

If buying try to get a pic of the fittings, and if they fittings appear different, as for the fitting / entire line as well if possible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...