Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just came across the below intake comparison on G35driver and thought you all would like to have a look.

not sure if has been posted already but i couldnt find it in a search so here it is......

http://g35driver.com/forums/intake-exhaust/360896-dynoing-out-myth-intake-mods-results.html#post5544369

Interesting reading, but as someone who has just installed the Takeda intake (which retains use of the Power Duct but replaces everything back), it's sort of like being told there's no Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny died of myxomatosis... If I read the data correctly, I should expect *less* horsepower (3) than the standard filter. Seriously, I find that hard to believe but then I didn't put the car on a dyno either.

Maybe there's something in how the ECU deals with different air flows detected by the MAF after all.

Thanks.

Edited by Stuart McK

wouldn't really put the car on the dyno over an intake mod, mainly because most dyno tuneups are done with the hood open and a fan forcing air to the engine bay, hardly replicating the *real world* driving with the hood down in heavy traffic and 45 degree heatwave

What is wrong with the stock intake?

Stock inlet path is designed and built to ensure the vehicle meets emission and road regulations. This is why, for example, it has that odd air baffle hanging below it. Replacing it with a straight-through, in theory, should provide the engine with a faster path for taking in cold air (which increases explosion quality). Replacing the stock filter with a lifetime cone filter also means I save money on services (although when you consider the cost of either, it's arguable how much you really saved).

But then there's the additional growl level offered when you put your foot down... rolleyes.gif

Stock inlet path is designed and built to ensure the vehicle meets emission and road regulations. This is why, for example, it has that odd air baffle hanging below it. Replacing it with a straight-through, in theory, should provide the engine with a faster path for taking in cold air (which increases explosion quality). Replacing the stock filter with a lifetime cone filter also means I save money on services (although when you consider the cost of either, it's arguable how much you really saved).

But then there's the additional growl level offered when you put your foot down... rolleyes.gif

im running the stock box no worries. seems to flow enough.

more interesting was the almost stock looking Stillen Set up.. has anyone here done it?

im running the stock box no worries. seems to flow enough.

more interesting was the almost stock looking Stillen Set up.. has anyone here done it?

I have the Stillen box with the Z-tube and it does indeed make a difference. I only dyno'd my car after the Stillen box, Plenum spacer and HFCs were installed so it would be difficult to ascertain what individual component is responsible for the gains. I can however vouge for the fact that it is a lot more responsive, it sounds a lot better (with the Z tube) and especially mid-range torque (between 3000-5500 rpm) seems to be up a notch. I'm quite happy to see it responsible for the most power gains on his thread...quite subjective but good to see :thumbsup:

I have the Stillen box with the Z-tube and it does indeed make a difference. I only dyno'd my car after the Stillen box, Plenum spacer and HFCs were installed so it would be difficult to ascertain what individual component is responsible for the gains. I can however vouge for the fact that it is a lot more responsive, it sounds a lot better (with the Z tube) and especially mid-range torque (between 3000-5500 rpm) seems to be up a notch. I'm quite happy to see it responsible for the most power gains on his thread...quite subjective but good to see :thumbsup:

well running the turbo VQ25 engine, the Z-tube isnt compatible with our engines. only the box would be necessary.

whats the retail on one of those.

well running the turbo VQ25 engine, the Z-tube isnt compatible with our engines. only the box would be necessary.

whats the retail on one of those.

http://www.importpartspro.com/402835g35.html

US$ to $AUS is currently similar, so just add shipping (~$100). Becomes expensive by itself...

And here's another thread where it was installed: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/295327-new-parts-installed/page__p__4923762__hl__cold+air+intake__fromsearch__1#entry4923762

hmm. seems the cheaper option would be the "takedo" or something. not really sure whether it would fit in our engine bay, and if it bolts up the same way. stillen works in ours with the AFM housing bolting to the box.

hmm. seems the cheaper option would be the "takedo" or something. not really sure whether it would fit in our engine bay, and if it bolts up the same way. stillen works in ours with the AFM housing bolting to the box.

Hard to say. Perhaps you'd get some clue here: http://afepower.com/...=V6&&brandID=78

Note the installation instructions PDF with pictures of the engine bay, and ignore the price on the factory website (I got mine cheaper).

I also note that the Stillen box appears to point the cone at an angle. This may allow it to take air direct into the side of the cone, rather than hitting it almost head on. The Takedo design is angled, but it doesn't look as much). Still I'm happy with the Takeda though - engine seems much more responsive than before.

Edited by Stuart McK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome.  800hp should be a bit of weekend fun!
    • I'm going with "Just run two gates". Fix the problem conclusively. It's the only way you'd ever truly know, right?. This is all pretty much splitting hairs. Even the extreme example where it takes two whole seconds at 100kmh or something sounds monstrously dubious. And anyway, when you're punching the throttle when you 'need' this power, you aren't at 2800rpm in the wrong gear. Test it at 5600rpm in 3rd gear, when you're traction limited punching out of a sweeper. Much difference there when you account for traction?
    • And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually  
    • Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
×
×
  • Create New...