Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Collection

EXEMPT

By EXEMPT,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

It's a bit of a mission to rip all the lines and the solenoid out, I put a lockbar in and then waited until I next had the engine out to remove the rest of the crap.

I got my lockbar off a trader over east (NYTSKY).

  • Replies 804
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Boss-zilla Mentor

Boss-zilla

Posted
Posted

It's a bit of a mission to rip all the lines and the solenoid out, I put a lockbar in and then waited until I next had the engine out to remove the rest of the crap.

I got my lockbar off a trader over east (NYTSKY).

pfftt, did mine with the motor in dont be weak. I know i did it when the rear cradle came out so cant remember how hard it will be with it in.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Rear cradle in or out make no difference to complexity. It's the solenoid under the plenum and the lines across the front crossmember and the cooler line that runs across the radiator support that present the problem.

I must say, it's a lot easier to change oil filters with the solenoid gone :P

turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
Posted

I also ran an oil cooler in line with mine after i pulled the hicas out, there was another trader selling lockbars to but i havent seen him around for ages.

Once you pull the hicas out use the steel lines as "upgraded" fuel lines, they are 1/2in i'm pretty sure

doyl Apprentice

doyl

Posted
Posted

Yeah i'm definitely not going to the amount of effort as taking all the tubing out.

Bare minimum is what I'm prepared to put in, the lines can stay, they won't be harming anyone.

Need to replace the front drivers side tie-rod end at the same time though, what is doing one of them like? No experience in suspension unfortunately.

Haven't had much of a chance to drive her around in the dry yet, but the other night I did and boy is the back end slippery on boost.

270hp really creeps up on you good when you are used to an auto ford BA :P

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

i fit mine next to the drivers side head light, but then again i had no air con core either. I miss that POS. :(

Worst comes to worst I'll mount the p/s and oil cooler at the top in front of the radiator but was trying to keep that path clear. With the GTR cooler setup behind a stock type-m front bar, doesn't leave a lot of room for anything!

But really I'm not phased at the moment, it's only going to be a daily until I get a gearbox for the wagon.

Boss-zilla Mentor

Boss-zilla

Posted
Posted

another trick i have seen (as it is not a super critical thing) is the cooler mounted at the base of the rad with a small scoop picking up air from underneath.

If you were looking between the rad and motor you would see it sitting horizontaly below, bit hard to explain.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

another trick i have seen (as it is not a super critical thing) is the cooler mounted at the base of the rad with a small scoop picking up air from underneath.

If you were looking between the rad and motor you would see it sitting horizontaly below, bit hard to explain.

That is one of the potential locations :thumbsup: another is in between radiator and cooler (directly above bov return pipe), right down the bottom with a long narrow core, something like this should more than suffice.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13210/?rtype=10

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

What turbo is it? Looks like a highflow?!?

It's the highflow off the wagon but freshly rebuilt by Grant at Per4manz (he built it originally), reckons it's good for 24psi and 400rwhp but I'll probably only wind 15psi into it until I get a new gearbox for the wagon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • joshuaho96
      Coolant leak?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...