Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have of complete set of Nismo S-Tune Suspension for sale. All in very good working order.

....this is a great upgrade for the M35...RX, RS or AR-X.

$700ono. Delivery can be arranged at you cost or pickup from Sydney can be organised.

P.S. I can also organise fitment at a very reasonable price....can be done at the same time as pickup if you want.

PM me for further detail.

cheers

Craig

Edited by Jetwreck
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358581-m35-stagea-nismo-s-tune-suspension/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

These the ones from bisebees car? Iain too lazy to sell them?

yes they are from Steve's cars...why you ask!

to lazy.....Nah! ...... it's my way of pushing him towards getting his turbo done....sell his shit for him.....also the more he sells less we need to move!!!! :P

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

I have of complete set of Nismo S-Tune Suspension for sale. All in very good working order.

....this is a great upgrade for the M35...RX, RS or AR-X.

$700ono. Delivery can be arranged at you cost or pickup from Sydney can be organised.

P.S. I can also organise fitment at a very reasonable price....can be done at the same time as pickup if you want.

PM me for further detail.

cheers

Craig

How much would this suspension drop an ARX?

Are there any other details you know like spring rates, how many kms they have done?

Cheers

How much would this suspension drop an ARX?

Are there any other details you know like spring rates, how many kms they have done?

Cheers

It will drop your AR-X about -40mm....I run the Nismo springs with Bilstien shock's......we are thinking they have done about 60-70K as the were not on the car they came off from factory. I tested this set in my car and the were great hence the reason I found myself some new Nismo springs from O/S!

Spring rate is 8.3kgf/mm and 9.2kgf/mm rear.

The photo below is my car with the Nismo Shock's and springs.

post-37023-0-79307400-1303636923_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jetwreck

oh...off to Fiji for a week tonight so if you interested contact zei20l....he should be back from holiday's in the next day or so!

  • 2 weeks later...

this would be an awesome setup with the Whiteline Sway bars as well......could probably get it all done with the sway's for about $1,100!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...