Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$650??? That 1:18 scale Biante R32 on that Japanese site is only 7000 yen (A$82.65)...

You might have to get the Biante and modify it, give it a new paint job and take the cage out etc? Probably not what you're after but... thats the only 1:18 R32 I've seen around.

Guest INASNT
$650??? That 1:18 scale Biante R32 on that Japanese site is only 7000 yen (A$82.65)...

 

You might have to get the Biante and modify it, give it a new paint job and take the cage out etc? Probably not what you're after but... thats the only 1:18 R32 I've seen around.

that r32 is a collectors item as theres only 500 or so been made, and it comes with all this gibson motorsport docs.

Check out www.scale18.com pretty much lists every 1/18th scale model available no R33 in 1/18th though R32 GTR's will be available soon from autoart these are the only ones in R32 that arnt race cars in white and gun metal grey according to the biante website

I have never seen a 1:18 r33 ever.

The 1:18 r34 Autoart I've seen isn't very impressive or even accurate.

I have a nice little collection of 1:43 Skylines though and being a Japanese company, they are pleasingly accurate:

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/ebbro1.jpg

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/ebbro2.jpg

T.

Guest INASNT
I have never seen a 1:18 r33 ever.

The 1:18 r34 Autoart I've seen isn't very impressive or even accurate.

I have a nice little collection of 1:43 Skylines though and being a Japanese company, they are pleasingly accurate:

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/ebbro1.jpg

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/ebbro2.jpg

T.

1:43 is to small i recon

I have the R34 N1 GTR. R33 GTR Midnight Purple and Mines Tuned R34 GTR in those Ebbro 1:43 scale, and yeah, they're very small... about double the size of a matchbox car... Very well made and looks very accurate, but not really worth buying :P

Guest INASNT
Model cars are a completely useless hobby and especially those who fill up display cabinets full of them but whatever makes you happy I suppose.

I wonder if these will ever be worth anything given that there are allegedly 'only' 3,000 examples.

T.

Speaking of display cabinets, do you know of any specially made for model cars?

I have always wanted my own collection, i have heapes of really small cars but they look shit compared to the 1:18 scale models

Speaking of display cabinets, do you know of any specially made for model cars?

I have always wanted my own collection, i have heapes of really small cars but they look shit compared to the 1:18 scale models

I seem to remember that most of the cabinets I seen were professional, ie. barrel locks, sliding doors like shop fittings.

I agree with you that 1:43 is a tough scale and Ebbro is certainly not the best, I've seen Ferrari models that look like they were hand made but they were $250 plus!

Ebbro is less than $100, made in China but still very good, I see no paint flaws unlike other models and I find plastics to be good although I cleaned some flashing off them.

Well this is more for Denham's benefit...

1. Forget R32 Ebbro. They all stopped production long ago.

2. R33 Ebbro might be available but still rare.

3. Some dribbs and drabs of the 34 still available.

I got mine various model stores but mostly from an SAU sister site:

http://www.importplaza.com.au/nissanR34.htm

Andrew will help you, he's been good to me.

I am still after an R34 Mines tune and perhaps a Nismo tune model.

I suggest that perhaps this is the right one for you:

http://www.ehobbies.com/dc-ert-33447.html

T.

Guest INASNT
I seem to remember that most of the cabinets I seen were professional, ie. barrel locks, sliding doors like shop fittings.

I agree with you that 1:43 is a tough scale and Ebbro is certainly not the best, I've seen Ferrari models that look like they were hand made but they were $250 plus!

Ebbro is less than $100, made in China but still very good, I see no paint flaws unlike other models and I find plastics to be good although I cleaned some flashing off them.

Well this is more for Denham's benefit...

1. Forget R32 Ebbro. They all stopped production long ago.

2. R33 Ebbro might be available but still rare.

3. Some dribbs and drabs of the 34 still available.

I got mine various model stores but mostly from an SAU sister site:  

http://www.importplaza.com.au/nissanR34.htm

Andrew will help you, he's been good to me.

I am still after an R34 Mines tune and perhaps a Nismo tune model.

I suggest that perhaps this is the right one for you:

http://www.ehobbies.com/dc-ert-33447.html

T.

Place in me, have the ebbro r33 still in stock for $67 and the KPGC10 in 1:18 for $108. Only 1:18 in r32 is the 1990 gibson model which is $180.

I actually saw the nismo r34 model at a hobby shop in fountain gate in vic last night in 1:18 grey colour.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...