Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I believe its quite close if not the same as the Nismo pump, given they have supported 380rwkw before.

although its anyone's guess after 10 years as most people have fuel pump issues once you get to the '10 year' or so with any skyline. :)

Well yes and no mate. For mild mods you should be totally fine...

However it always pays to get the car onto a dyno, check AFR's & fuel pressure just to be sure it is indeed all A-OK.

I mean it should be, but nothing is ever certain when dealing with 10yr+ old pumps. Often people change then just for piece of mind as Nismo pumps are only $300 or so

Also nismo speclist here states Nismo fuel pump, flowing 4.6 l/min at 3 bar pressure, has 25% more flow than factory pump. This gives us a figure of 4.6/1.25 = 3.68 l/min, or 220.8 l/hour.

Edited by Legionnaire

standard 34 GTR pump is no where near a nismo pump. nismo pumps are 276l/ph (same across 32/33/34). standard GTR pump are 195/lph (again same across 32/33/34). You can get a bit more out of them with a direct power feed as they flow a bit more at higher voltage but they are a long way from a nismo (flows 50% more).

If the GTR factory pump can make 380rwkw/20psi (Snowmans car did, everyone assumed aftermarket pump, which it turned out not to be).

It can't be flowing 195L/ph.

My point was it would most certainly appear that what is on the Japanese spec sheet is perhaps not what is going on in reality.

Someone have both handy? Would make for an interesting test! :merli:

^ Now that's the kinda shit I'm talking about.

70psi its flowing ~235L/hr. 40ltr/hr extra @ 70psi is hardly just a "bit more" via voltage :)

Clearly the Nissan OEM is spec'd down with ~250L/ph @ base pressure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...