Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i have used fishing wire to debadge the stagea. I has tried to use grease and wax remover to get rid of the glue but still leaves the outline of the wording. What have you used in the past thatwill get rid of the glue and any marking from the lettering.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359557-debaging/
Share on other sites

You could also try Mineral Turpentine on a rag and/or a very light polish as there will be a difference in the paintwork finish now where the badges have been...

+1 thats what i did.. just polished it up and it came up perfecto

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359557-debaging/#findComment-5742633
Share on other sites

Ive done the same on mine got all the adhesive of with some metho on a rag and then clay bar, cut and polished then waxed where the badge was but you can still see where it was...... Think i need to find someone to hit it with the buffer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359557-debaging/#findComment-5742798
Share on other sites

It should be fine, although it will most likely strip the polish from the surface leaving you with a dull patch that you'll need to repolish.

It's not different from a bit of petrol running down the side of the car when you're filling the tank - I hate it when it does that!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359557-debaging/#findComment-5743078
Share on other sites

Ok got all the glue off. Not I just have like a dirty outline of what used to be there. What would be the best grit sandpaper to remove this before I cut and polish. Would wet sanding be best

Just use a cutting compound, and keep going until you get the finish you're after. The clear coat on these is far too thin for wet sanding IMO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359557-debaging/#findComment-5743249
Share on other sites

Just use a cutting compound, and keep going until you get the finish you're after. The clear coat on these is far too thin for wet sanding IMO.

+1 on the cutting compound and i wouldn't go near it with wet & dry either.

I'd also use a light hand when using the cutting compound and just take your time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359557-debaging/#findComment-5743266
Share on other sites

unfortunately the badge the car in the factory when the paint hasnt quite cured so leaves marks. plus the weather etc doesnt help.

mine and craigs are the same. no amount of cutting and polishing etc got the marks out of mine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359557-debaging/#findComment-5743627
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...