Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I have an R33GTST and apart from the high flowed units I was wondering which other 'out of the box' units would fit?

I have not a lot of experience with turbo installation, but what I got so far is that there are quite a few

T3-Flange Units out there.

For example this one:

3076R

This turbo has many options, but the 6 bolt mount for my Nissan is not listed. :(

So in reality how are these Turbos matched to the existing piping?

Would it be an option to get a used turbo elbow and then weld / machine some kind of adapter?

Or are these adapters available somewhere?

Many thanks ...

Edited by Torques
  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The honest easiest way is definitely a highflow, as stated above.

We would have no idea about your options in the UK, yet if you are not after a very specific setup you should just decide how much power you want, or how fast you want to go, then pick your turbo to suit.

For example if you were in aus and wanted sub 300rwkw with as little as hassle as possible you would simply buy a hypergear G2 or G3 turbo for 260 or 300rwkw respectively. Obviously these would net the results and save you alot of cash, spending the VAST amount more would net you the same result with a better outcome overall.

Overall implying drivability, spool etc.

Ideally you would want a forward facing plenum, otherwise the standard pipes get in the way of the 4" intake on the 3076 and it just looks messy in my opinion.

But these guys offer a 6 bolt rear housing :thumbsup:

http://www.horsepowe...IAB2/prod18.htm

Just seen that your in the UK, but there are places that do give the option so there might be one there if you ask around

Ideally you would want a forward facing plenum, otherwise the standard pipes get in the way of the 4" intake on the 3076 and it just looks messy in my opinion.

But these guys offer a 6 bolt rear housing :thumbsup:

http://www.horsepowe...IAB2/prod18.htm

Yeah I was originally going to get the 3076r with the 6 bolt rear on the stock manifold but I'm glad I went the whole hog in the end with the high mount exhaust manifold and forward facing plenum. It's about a trillion times sexier and didn't cost that much more.

_1019404Medium.jpg

Hello to OZ,

Thanks for the replies ..

I would be very happy with 300RWKW, and fancy fat torque over peak power.

Also I would like quick response (so 12PSI+ @3000rpm).

If I could find a used R34GTT turbine, it would be a good bases to high flow it using

a different turbo cartidge.

Cheers ...

I would be very happy with 300RWKW, and fancy fat torque over peak power.

Also I would like quick response (so 12PSI+ @3000rpm).

Specifically, 12psi @ 3000rpm with 300rwkw to boot is a tall order.

3000rpm is next to nothing and at those revs with that boost this turbo will still be feeling lethargic. Try to grasp that boost @ rpm wont = power nor response, so planning where you want to hit 12psi is next to useless. What you do want to plan is at what RPM you start making good power.

The general consensus for good response is 200rwkw @ 4000rpm. It is a slightly tall order from a 3076r in a reasonable cost effective setup, you will see most making the 140-180 mark. That sort of power and response can be experienced through a highflow, yet the torque and overall feel of the turbo will suffer.

I think you will keep being referred back to the highflow option more than anything else, yet make sure you pick a builder who has well documented results.

Hello,

Yes ... you are correct, high boost at low RPM and 300kw at the rear is probably asking for too much and maybe not possible with a single turbo.

But 200kw at 4000rpm sounds quite good to me.

And 2500-4500 is the range I use the engine most of the time..

I was told a recore with the 3076 internals would be something to consider.

The thing is that a high flowed turbo is not any cheaper compared to

an off the shelf unit.

Many thanks ...

Specifically, 12psi @ 3000rpm with 300rwkw to boot is a tall order.

3000rpm is next to nothing and at those revs with that boost this turbo will still be feeling lethargic. Try to grasp that boost @ rpm wont = power nor response, so planning where you want to hit 12psi is next to useless. What you do want to plan is at what RPM you start making good power.

The general consensus for good response is 200rwkw @ 4000rpm. It is a slightly tall order from a 3076r in a reasonable cost effective setup, you will see most making the 140-180 mark. That sort of power and response can be experienced through a highflow, yet the torque and overall feel of the turbo will suffer.

I think you will keep being referred back to the highflow option more than anything else, yet make sure you pick a builder who has well documented results.

Edited by Torques

yer but a highflow bolts straight on. off the shelf aftermarket turbos require a fair bit of modifying to fit

I agree its easier being a bolt on, but if you were to get for example, a 3076 with the nissan rear housing, you just need a T3 spacer plate , oil and water lines and some intake pipeing. so there isnt alot in it.

Ive just gone for a highflow because i care more about response, as soon as i get it together and back from the dyno i will put up some charts :thumbsup:

If you get a 3076. Do not get the Nissan 6 bolt housing. It is restrictive and plain garbage. To fit a 3076 with the proper Garrett housing requires:

Spacer plate ( so comp housing doesn't touch manifold)

Extended studs

Lines

Dump pipe

-all this comes with the kit and is not hard to fit up

Only thing you will need to do is get a 4-3 inch reducer and make up a custom intake pipe

It's well worth it

And for response? I'm hitting 18-19psi by 3500 rpm. On the 3076 with .82 rear housing

If you get a 3076. Do not get the Nissan 6 bolt housing. It is restrictive and plain garbage. To fit a 3076 with the proper Garrett housing requires:

Spacer plate ( so comp housing doesn't touch manifold)

Extended studs

Lines

Dump pipe

-all this comes with the kit and is not hard to fit up

Only thing you will need to do is get a 4-3 inch reducer and make up a custom intake pipe

It's well worth it

And for response? I'm hitting 18-19psi by 3500 rpm. On the 3076 with .82 rear housing

Is your bottom end stock rb25? Also how is your intake setup? 3" metal pipe with pod and AFM infront of turbo or do you have the AFM in the cooler piping?

Is your bottom end stock rb25? Also how is your intake setup? 3" metal pipe with pod and AFM infront of turbo or do you have the AFM in the cooler piping?

Stock bottom ended rb25 mate.

I got the 3 inch intake pipe going to my z32 afm which is connected to my stock airbox with a blitz panel filter. Then have a custom CAI going from the bottom of my airbox to a pod in my front bar

Stock bottom ended rb25 mate.

I got the 3 inch intake pipe going to my z32 afm which is connected to my stock airbox with a blitz panel filter. Then have a custom CAI going from the bottom of my airbox to a pod in my front bar

Sounds good man. Metal or silicone leading to your box? Can you PM me some pix?

Sound interesting ... :)

So you need a spacer for the T3 connector and modify the turbo elbow to match the 3076 exhaust side ...

Is the 3076 much wider compared to the standard turbo?

Who is selling this kit?

Some pictures/dyno would be nice.

Cheers ..

If you get a 3076. Do not get the Nissan 6 bolt housing. It is restrictive and plain garbage. To fit a 3076 with the proper Garrett housing requires:

Spacer plate ( so comp housing doesn't touch manifold)

Extended studs

Lines

Dump pipe

-all this comes with the kit and is not hard to fit up

Only thing you will need to do is get a 4-3 inch reducer and make up a custom intake pipe

It's well worth it

And for response? I'm hitting 18-19psi by 3500 rpm. On the 3076 with .82 rear housing

Sound interesting ... :)

So you need a spacer for the T3 connector and modify the turbo elbow to match the 3076 exhaust side ...

Is the 3076 much wider compared to the standard turbo?

Who is selling this kit?

Some pictures/dyno would be nice.

Cheers ..

Hey mate. Yea you need a t3 10mm spacer to make it fit. The turbo when next to a stock turbo looms huge.

Sorry don't know what you mean about the elbow? You talking about the bend after the compressor outlet or?

I'll get pics tomorrow but it looks VERY stock under y bonnet

Hey mate. Yea you need a t3 10mm spacer to make it fit. The turbo when next to a stock turbo looms huge.

Sorry don't know what you mean about the elbow? You talking about the bend after the compressor outlet or?

I'll get pics tomorrow but it looks VERY stock under y bonnet

This. :)

I dont know why people say 3076 is laggy. But then, comparing any turbo to a stock RB25 turbo its laggy.

I thoroughly enjoy driving Lithiums 300kw 3076 .82 R33. The extra "lag" actually makes the car quite nice to drive. Your not constantly making boost without trying haha. But if you want it, its not far away!

Plus.. the turbo spool noise is orgasmic. :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...