Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's says 12mm bungs to allow various configs,

What size are most fittings/lines people using?

I'm sure it could be modified to suit bigger.

You'd need two if you were going serious e85 power, but then youd probably just have a conventional surge setup anyway,

Even two would be still quite manageable and neat I'd think though.

Edited by jangles

stumbled across this. VW/audi world

is ~4 diameter, ~8.5" long

http://www.034motors...nk-p-21527.html

great find and would be such a nice setup. Is 1litre enough though?

I remember talking to Robbie ward about this and his recommendation was a 3litre surge tank?

Read the info!!

Factory feed and return to tank,

Pump to rail, rail to surge.

How long would it take to completely empty 1l with an 044, plus 2m of line, with nothing returning to the surge?

It's designed for far smaller cars, but, It would be a far better option than just installing a pump by itself. It is never uncovered until zero fuel. 2xpumps paralleled would make it a 2l surge,

It's says 12mm bungs to allow various configs,

What size are most fittings/lines people using?

I'm sure it could be modified to suit bigger.

You'd need two if you were going serious e85 power, but then youd probably just have a conventional surge setup anyway,

Even two would be still quite manageable and neat I'd think though.

Dash 6 is the most common, dash 8 for some i think.

It's a well thought out little device, but yes as you said if you're E85 you'd have 2 pumps and a larger tank anyway.

This would suit anyone IMO who's on either E85 or pump fuel and around 350kw because they just dont need that extra pump.

Very good find!

How long would it take to completely empty 1l with an 044, plus 2m of line, with nothing returning to the surge?

Well depends on voltage and how wide the ID of the line is, but you'd be able to have a safe guesstimate of about 30 seconds based on 300lph and a big line ID (enough for 1.5L).

Are the surge tanks really nessesary, 2 nights ago I throught to myself I'm going to put a end to all this talk about surge tanks and test my setup.

Got some decent windy roads around my way, they all private of coarse.... So my tank was low, like the light was on and the needle only just on the E white line.

And I was into it, throwing it into the corners, coming out of them sideways foot flat, up too 140+ and back down to 40 around some of the bends...... Not 1 drop of surge, nothing it was like I had a full tank of fuel..... This is 330kw -5's on 98, but still it was a low tank.

I don't see the need for a surge tank in a street/track car.... And for a track car, just go buy a fuel cell.....

Keep it simple guys, less sht goes wrong.

I mean on the track you would make sure you have over 1/2 a tank in the car before each session, it's really not a hard thing to do, and 100% you'll have no issues....

  • 9 months later...

Old thread bump here haha but I have my pierburg still not installed...I'm going to take the plunge and remove my surge tank with 044 and run this damn pump on its own, submerged in tank.

I kinda feel like I'm going backwards by removing my surge tank with 044 but I don't think I need this setup for ~350kw

Pierburg pumps are good, they are the only pumps that can pull fuel up a hose, which is why I use one as a fuel transfer pump for draining tanks.

A surge tank is not related to a particular power, it's how you drive, hard cornering and drag launches on less than half tank that require engine protection against fuel surge. I would leave the 044 setup unless you putt around town.

Old thread bump here haha but I have my pierburg still not installed...I'm going to take the plunge and remove my surge tank with 044 and run this damn pump on its own, submerged in tank.

I kinda feel like I'm going backwards by removing my surge tank with 044 but I don't think I need this setup for ~350kw

You said it yourself mate, you're going backwards. It's in there, it works, leave what isn't broken, alone!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...