Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys having some trouble with my 33 it wont idle at all when cold & seems to fuel up at around 4500-5000rpm then its fine for awhile then dose it again

ive read a few pages on here saying coils but i have new spitfire coils & its still doing it

i was thinking afm but i have no idea

any help would be greatly appreciated,

Here are a few specs on the car that might help you guys work it out

S1 R33 GTST

S2 RB25 DET, rb26 crank,forged rods & pistons ACL race bearing and gasket set, metal head gasket.

ported,polished & port matched head

Nismo N1 oil & water pumps.

splitfire coil packs

Turbo smart fuel pressure regulator

Front facing plenum

FMIC

stock rb25 turbo running 13psi

stock ecu

Edited by Autumn33

Hey guys having some trouble with my 33 it wont idle at all when cold & seems to fuel up at around 4500-5000rpm then its fine for awhile then dose it again

ive read a few pages on here saying coils but i have new spitfire coils & its still doing it

i was thinking afm but i have no idea

any help would be greatly appreciated,

Here are a few specs on the car that might help you guys work it out

S1 R33 GTST

S2 RB25 DET, rb26 crank,forged rods & pistons ACL race bearing and gasket set, metal head gasket.

ported,polished & port matched head

Nismo N1 oil & water pumps.

splitfire coil packs

Turbo smart fuel pressure regulator

Front facing plenum

FMIC

stock rb25 turbo running 13psi

stock ecu

The combination of these 3, plus the different engine internals

There are a million and one threads about cars with stock ECU's and more boost running like crap, Rich and Retard etc etc.

Aftermarket ECU + Tune will = Engine running better

thats exactly why i asked my above question.

but if the car has been running for a year before any problems arrised then might be something else.

but then again he has only had the car for a month so the issues may have always been there

thanks guys, it was running fine all month till the past week now its running crap house as stated above, thanks for all your help

any ideas on a computer to run? i can get a emanage blue would that be a good idea or ? any suggestions would be awesome thanks

You will need a Z32 ecu (no Nistune for R33) - have a look at the Nistune site and read the nistune thread here. Or if you can afford it Link/Vipec . You don't mention it but maybe you already have a bigger (3in - 4in) exhaust but with an aftermarket ecu and exhaust you will be all set for a bigger turbo and injectors and 300+kw!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...