Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

+1

I'm pretty sure he ordered the hard race ones.

You are correct, in the middle of doing it now, replacing rear struts at the same time, will take before and after pics of the canber as well, although i will just be guessing how much to wind them out by, looks like probably 20mm longer than the standards would do it but i will do 10mm coz i will be getting it done properly thiss week when i get new rear tyres.

did you get the bush ones or pillow ball?

i think you wind them out to be same length as standard arms then when you go for alignment they adjust to what specs you want it

read this on whiteline site for one of their camber arms so i guess will be same :)

but pics would be great :)))

its ok to adjust them a bit longer than your standard. i did, and got them almost perfect. it was about 15mm i think. it looked like it needed about that much anyway.

it will all get sorted when you get it aligned properly.

here is a pic of the arms with the standard, the shorter one was how long i guessed it should be, i did wind it in a bit tho as it was too hard to get on the arm.

gallery_27276_4283_1512640.jpg

here is the arm installed, almost matches the cusco coil overs!

gallery_27276_4283_5731.jpg

the camber before the install.

gallery_27276_4283_846204.jpg

after install.

gallery_27276_4283_894858.jpg

and what it does to the tyres.

gallery_27276_4283_290280.jpg

Next step is to get them adjusted properly when the new tyres go on and then a tune for the 3540 i just put on :D

Do they looks as good in quality as they do in the picture? And do the bearings look decent in quality? Just curious as i was looking at these

The bearings seem ok, bit hard to see them as there covered by rubber, all else looks as good as they do in the pics.

A word of advice, when taking off the bolt off the body i suggest you get the car in the air and the wheel off hit it with some wd40 and go have lunch, come back every 5 minutes and hit it again, i hit the first one 5 minutes prior to trying to undo it, i almost pulled the car off the jack stands trying to undo it, after that every time i had to get up to do something i hit the other side with some wd40, once i went to do it was still hard but no where near as bad as the first side.

  • 2 weeks later...

Got my hard race camber arms and jjr hicas lock bar, will take some pics on the weekend when installing.

i must say the hard race camber arms looks awesome compared to the jjr, not that the jjr look bad but the hard race look really well made, cant wait to install them.

got JJR rear camber arms- work perfect for a year or so now

JJR front toe arms with pillowball arent that great for everyday use. pillowballs are rooted already after around 7 months. would be good for drift or circuit car where they dont see speed humps and potholes.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...