Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

... and the only result there just told me they don't work on Grey Imports. (Car is a 34)

So, is there anyone that does? I've probably called 50 random places now, and noone does, and noone can even advise of someone who does. Are electrical issues 100% Backyard jobs on these things or what :P.

Longest Story in history short: I got a car back from a workshop, with outstanding electrical problems. Problems I do not believe they can fix, also don't get the impression they can fix them either. Problems that did not exist before the car went there. However, I can't find anyone, at all, to work on this, or even give me a quote on it so I can put a monetary value on the problems to take them to VCAT.

Anyone know anyone who actually does work on these things?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361446-auto-electricans-anyone-know-one/
Share on other sites

Maroondah Auto Electrics on the corner of Colchester Rd and Canterbury Rd might be able to help you. Guys name is Fletcher, and he has helped me with car audio stuff in my Skyline...not sure if he discriminates against imports when it comes to mechanical electricals though.

(03) 9720 4501

I have already emailed Sam and (by proxy) his friend Bozz, was aware he was a bit of a gun with electrics.. though, they know the full story with this car so they may be well advised to GTFO far, far, far, far away from it. I realise they are a bit busy, so sent them an email without a reply but when their website tells you to be patient, I can understand they have other stuff to do, lol

I just didn't know if there was anyone else out there, or people that were in the know/on forums/expert backyard sparkies or the like. It seems when people do things like engine swaps and loom changes and adaptations that it seems to be a dark art practiced in places no-one can readily identify.

As for what the problem is, there's actually about 10... most of which seemingly are connected or could have roots in an electrical problem.

Can you give a quick outline of the issues the car is having? What its doing, when, and what the workshop was doing to the car prior to the problems.

I know someone that may be willing to help, an expert backyard sparkie that has done some insanely complicated wiring conversions/motor/chassis swaps.

Thanks for the tips guys, will follow them up.

Essentially what has happened is an Engine swap with a piggyback ECU.

Airbag light is on, constantly

The AC doesnt work (at all - Electrically the interface works, but no air comes out of half of the vents, and the heater doesnt work, ideal for those cold mornings when I like to see out of my windscreen)

Check engine light is constantly on (error 21) though its had every ignition thing changed, brand new splitfires, etc, CAS changed, etc.

As soon as you hit 6000 RPM the ECU ignores whatever timing settings are put into the car, and advances by 50 degrees, even though the ECU software is telling it to add 10 (or so).. setting it to -20 in this range still results in +30 or so.. (not sure if an auto elec can fix this/is the right guy for this)

Alarm is mysteriously not connected, immobilizer etc just doesn't work, remote start doesnt work

Some of the time the car won't start. It just sits there firing for a good 100 or so tries. This used to happen about 30% of the time, since I replaced a lot of vaccum lines this has now lessened, but does randomly still occur (i'd say about 10% of the time). A lot of the time, it really, really, really is reluctant to start.

I realise not all of these may be auto electric issues (others omitted..) but I figure that there is definitiely wiring issues going on that need to be sorted out.

I have a feeling the rest of the car is going to have serious issues running without it.

My own issues aside, it would be nice to have this information in general/someone searching having (attempted) to look around, there is a dire shortage of auto electricians for imports in general.

Hey dude,

I know a fix for "Airbag light is on, constantly".

It's some where on SAU but as far as I remember, this happens if the steering wheel or airbag has been unplugged for too long?

Anyway, the fix is, turn car off, open drivers side door, but press and hold the little door sensor (so the car think the door is closed), then turn key to ignition without starting the car, then quickly press that door sensor at least 7 times and just hold it. Then just turn car off.

Once you have done that, that should reset the airbag light.

where do you live?

it cant be that hard to sort some of that out

it might involve returnin the car to stock to eliminate annoyances

what mods does the car have and is it now running rb25det neo (or non-neo)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...