Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought they were a consumable ?

IE one or two race working life.

Get's expensive with magnesium alloys :blush:

Pockets ain't empty cus ?

LOL! No...Still got some left

I was hoping if they are made to order I could just get them forged in a standard wheel Alloy as apposed to Mag-Alloy.

I know they are centre lock, But I'm about to fit a set of V8 Supercar brakes and will get the hubs made to suit.

I just like the look of the old Group A cars...

Wheels were made by Cast Alloy in Adelaide(90% sure)......be aware that there are 2 different wheel setups....the 1990 wheels were setup for smaller hubs and lighter......1992 wheels have a larger hub setup and were heavier. You can tell the different wheels fairly easy as I am pretty sure the smaller centre lock's had the Nissan logo on them.

I do have access to some genuine set's of wheels, but all of these wheels would have to be crack tested and the price is a little heafty for what they are.....IMO the guy's dreaming if he thinks his going to get what his asking!

PM me for further detail if your interested!

talking about a race car or road car here??

If its a race car and pretty serious I have a set of Front and rear uprights that I have designed and machined for an R32 GTR to use center locks.

Revised geometry, uses 997 cup car bearings, and drive pin PCD (997 cup wheels bolt straight on) Custom upright, hub, Currently has radial mounts for Alcon's and everything needed machined from 4340 and heat treated. I could re machine the hubs and drive pins to suit a different wheel.

Only have 2 new nuts though. Plenty of 2nd hand ones but wouldnt be using them.

Made them up for a customer who now ownes them but is about to abandon the project and buy an R35.

They havent been circuit tested ( not worried about strength only the geometry and steering changes) but in simulations they are good.

If your not jerking around and seriously after something let me know.

Thanks for the replys guys, It looks to be a bit of a dead end as I won't even be able to get the car cert'ed with a centre lock wheel. The car is half circuit, half street car so it would still have to be legal for the road.

Just as a matter of interest Risking, What would the uprights etc go for? There is a race GTR over here that wants to run ex-V8 super car wheels, The uprights might be right up his alley.

Edited by Subboy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...