Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 139
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yer but no one inspects every single batch on a regular basis. bp98 is considered the best here but even so i've had one batch that needed 7 degrees of timing taken out across the board under load to stop it pinging badly, unless every batch before that was 105+ theres no way that tank was 98. not a once off either, its happened a few times, just not always that bad.

Marko, I hate to be picky, but I will... you also did the same thing in your opening post. :D. Must be an inherent anomaly with the Blackberry. I'd get it checked. :nyaanyaa:

PS, withheld would be a better word :D

PSS, I am keen to try E85 when I finally get my car finished.

u must be a journalist haha, u ballbreaker u :)

The only logic in not running E85 Marko is the range. Engine safety from the point of view of detonation/knock is better on E70/85, and the minor variance in AFR is minor. You may well be more likely to detonate your engine on a bad batch of 98. Your tuner is being left behind....

Does the legal requirement for 98 dictate at the bowser though? It'd be near impossible to guarantee that after all the contamination between refinery and the pump. All it would take is that fuel sitting for long enough in the servo tanks to drop in octane.

Yeah at the bowser, companies cannot market it as 98 if it's not.

If they get found out there are ramifications. But realistically it's not that well policed... Can't go around checking up on the people that make the Gov't loads of money now can we?

The joy of typing on blackberry with a mini screen, I left out "not to be"

Stevo - that's the other reason e85 is not for me as I also like to take long drives and will become stranded on e85

You can have 2 fuel maps with the Vipec, use one of the digital inputs with a switch to change between an e85 and pump fuel tune.

You can have 2 fuel maps with the Vipec, use one of the digital inputs with a switch to change between an e85 and pump fuel tune.

i was unaware of that - i still have a lot to learn about the vipec capabilities (still thinking of my dinosaur pfc)

So, changed your mind yet, Marko?

Atm I'm smashed, drinking all day and had a 15kg pig on the spit so my mind is clear...I'll stick with 98 pump and my 700cc injectors and leave it with my tuner (crd). So how my pierburg fuel pump runs as they support 500awkw without a problem

I was getting prices of $500 just for the ethanol content sensor a while back, have the prices come down?

Or you could save yourself the hassle and buy the V500 Ecu instead. It's pretty much the same price as the vipec/haltech/Autronic etc but does so much more. That's the beauty of running multi-controllers.

Then you don't need the E85 sensor, you just need a wideband o2 which are approx $125-$150

Or you could save yourself the hassle and buy the V500 Ecu instead. It's pretty much the same price as the vipec/haltech/Autronic etc but does so much more. That's the beauty of running multi-controllers.

Then you don't need the E85 sensor, you just need a wideband o2 which are approx $125-$150

Could you tell more about this ecu and how it works with the wideband please?

This was already explained by Hyped6 about a page back. You use lambda as a reference input into the ecu and have it add fuel if it sees leaner mixtures above a certain rpm/boost level etc.

You can put tables over tables over tables to achieve virtually any result you can think of

what if the wideband packs it in?

What if the E85 sensor packs it in?

What if a massive comet comes from outer space and crashes into earth?

As long as you change the sensor out every 100,000k or 50k if you are paranoid, then you will be fine. You could also argue about the e85 sensor and changing it out, but at $500 a pop?, hmm.

You can have 2 fuel maps with the Vipec, use one of the digital inputs with a switch to change between an e85 and pump fuel tune.

What sort of switch can you use for this?

I'm running an Emanage Ultimate setup with E85 and LPG tunes. Right now I need to flick the dip switches each time I switch fuel.

I'd love to run a switch to the driver's side so I can switch tune on the fly. The Emanage has two "Options" input...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...