Jump to content
SAU Community

Need my bonnet re-sprayed in S.E. suburbs - Help me find a good shop!


Recommended Posts

I'm looking for a shop to have my bonnet resprayed before auto salon as it's a little tired and I don't think a cut and polish will do any good, looks like it's fairly deep. I'm after a good quality shop in the South Eastern Suburbs as I'm in Knox and any info like what work you had done, price and if you were happy.

Anyone have a rough idea what a bonnet respray is worth?

-Cheers :uh-huh:

I work just down the road from on duty panels and have seen many a nice paint job emerge from there. I would make a decision fast coz they seem to be very busy as I see them try to jigsaw puzzle all the cars in every night.

They are in Sunshine.

P.S. ylwgtr2: Is that your car with the black tail lights? Sweet ride.

There are a few places in Bayswater, and also Ringwood.

I got one of my guards resprayed at a place in Baysie, did a good job of matching and the like and only took 2 days to get it back..

I can thoroughly recommend George at Euroimage in Cheltenham, not the cheapest but the only panelshop that has had repeat business from me, and I am one fussy mofo!! :):D

That was a joke! They sent me one that was the wrong style, then I had to send it back. Then they sent me a new one, ther right type.....with a big chip out of the resin so I had to send that back too. After 4 months I asked for a refund and spend it on performance not rice :cheers:

I'm quite interested in what you come up with, cos i'm trying to find out costs on Full resprays as well as good places to go. UPI quoted $2250 for a full respray, nothing special tho.

anyways, good luck in the search

oh... shit dude, so sorry for not replying to ur PM. That's the EXACT car i'm looking for. Altho for $34K it's quite cheap as that colour started in 2000, altho the site doesn't actually saw what yr the car is. 2000 R34 GT-T in TV2, $34K is a real good price but unfortunately more than i wanna spend (Hoping about $28k on the road, with respray). But thanks so much for sending us the link tho!

SS8_Gohan - Yeah saw it and thought you might like it.

I spoke to my old man and what do you knoe he had his 4WD resprayed a couple of weeks ago by a spraypainter that just does spray work. Dropping it over on Thursday night. He's gonna rub it back first with wet and dry to see what he can do but if it's too far gone then he'll just re-spray! Fingers crossed :rofl:

Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated!:wavey:

Adzmax, could you tell me the details of the shop/guy who is looking at your car?

I am in the market for a full OUTSIDE/OUTER respray and live in the country and have no idea of any decent places in melb to go for a respray. Especially ones that don't want $3000 to do it!

/me=poor

:-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...