Jump to content
SAU Community

Springs For My Bilstein Shocks

Mr. Untouchable
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, Just sorting out some bilstein shocks, and I'm looking at springs.

Question 1, will GTR springs fit GTST shocks? I dont think so, but not sure??

And any suggestions where to get springs, Looking for 7-5kg range to suit gtst shocks. found some 6kg apexi springs but they suit GTR.

also I am after linear springs.

any help would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361981-springs-for-my-bilstein-shocks/
Share on other sites
Waxhead Community Regular

Waxhead

Posted
Posted

Going through a similar thing myself. Chasing springs to go with my bilstein shocks for R32 GTR. Whiteline don't do them anymore, Tein S-Techs hard to get, Lovells and Eibach don't appear to do them.

Probably going to go with King Springs. Just e-mail them via their website contact details. Will get back to you within a day (Easter holidays, will probably mean Wednesday)

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Going through a similar thing myself. Chasing springs to go with my bilstein shocks for R32 GTR. Whiteline don't do them anymore, Tein S-Techs hard to get, Lovells and Eibach don't appear to do them.

Probably going to go with King Springs. Just e-mail them via their website contact details. Will get back to you within a day (Easter holidays, will probably mean Wednesday)

Why do you mean by Eibach dont do them? I have the red Eibach springs on my Bilstein shocks on my R32 GTR. For what it is worth they replaced Whiteline springs which now sit gathering cobwebs in a box next to some black Eibach springs that bolt straight up to the Bilstein shocks.

If you want to use springs from red (motorsport) Eibach range you need the threaded section that fits over the shock, the two bottom collars, the top spring seat & the spring. Eibach do a massive range of springs. You need to specify the spring length (eg for the rear in inches so a 8" long spring reads a 0800 on it), ID for me its 2.5" (which reads as 250 on the spring) and finally the rate in lbs/in. Divide the number by 54 to get kg/mm, so a 275 lb spring equals 5.1kg/mm.

post-5134-0-84525600-1304049865_thumb.jpg

rbjunkie Community Regular

rbjunkie

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm looking at that ground control kit too, but a little unsure of the ideal spring length for the recommended 355/345 ride height. Whats the popular option? 8" with helpers? 12"? think the stock spring length is like 355mm (14")?

im refering to rears btw

Edited by rbjunkie
NSNPWR Rising Star

NSNPWR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Slightly off topic but does anyone know what the standard Whiteline Spring Rates are for 32 GTR?

Im running a set of Whiteline springs with my Koni Yellows (Damper and Circlip height adjustable) and im convinced the springs are way too soft...ive got the fronts set at the highest setting yet they will still bottom out over a harsh enough bump and the rears are much the same, the shock is bottoming out...

Waxhead, i'll sell you the Whitelines out of mine :)

Edited by NSNPWR
chiksluvit Experienced

chiksluvit

Posted
Posted

Slightly off topic but does anyone know what the standard Whiteline Spring Rates are for 32 GTR?

Im running a set of Whiteline springs with my Koni Yellows (Damper and Circlip height adjustable) and im convinced the springs are way too soft...ive got the fronts set at the highest setting yet they will still bottom out over a harsh enough bump and the rears are much the same, the shock is bottoming out...

Waxhead, i'll sell you the Whitelines out of mine :)

it shouldn't

either the valving of the konis do not suit the springs or the shocks are worn

factory springs don't bottom out the standard shocks, and whiteline springs arent that much lower

NSNPWR Rising Star

NSNPWR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah, I know mate, its strange, they arent that low at all but even when the car is stationary, I can see the shock piston is a long way through its stroke...and theyre definitely not worn, I have damper wound right up and they're firm as, it rides sweet over nice flowing bumps.

Do you know what spring rates Whiteline are?

Edited by NSNPWR
chiksluvit Experienced

chiksluvit

Posted
Posted

whiteline spring rates are about 3.xkgs front and rear, its just a tad firmer, like 20% over stock i think

i had them in my old skyline with bilsteins and i thought it was a pretty good combo, new car has kings and bilstein, the kings were a lot lower and hits the bump stop more frequently. changed it to tein medium which is about 4.xkg front and rear and it was a lot better

i can definitely feel that the tein mediums are harder than the whitelines again, being 4.xkgs, the bilsteins seems to like them more, it handled rough road surfaces a lot better than the softer springs.

for softer springs, you will need to adjust the shocks to a firmer compression, softer rebound; and opposite for hard springs

i also had konis in a toyota i had before and it just bottoms out so easily as well, the konis were quite new, so i just thought that the shocks were not suited to the springs

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ahh....excellent stuff chiksluvit. I have thought about getting slightly firmer springs for my bilsteins as the king springs seem too soft for me (the the shocks seem valved for firmer springs anyway in my mind). So the tein mediums are both firmer AND at least as comfortable. ?

Edited by simpletool
chiksluvit Experienced

chiksluvit

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ahh....excellent stuff chiksluvit. I have thought about getting slightly firmer springs for my bilsteins as the king springs seem too soft for me (the the shocks seem valved for firmer springs anyway in my mind). So the tein mediums are both firmer AND at least as comfortable. ?

yup it is

you can definitely tell that they're harder than the kings, from more feedback from road surface, yet its not uncomfortable because when you go through really rough roads it doesn't vibrate as much, like its better controlled- not sure if it makes sense

an example is say lady game drive, section closer to chatswood, with the kings I will drive through and it'll feel crushy and even get rattles from the dash; with the teins i can still feel how bad the road is, but i won't get rattles from dash, like I only feel what the road is like but not any extra vibrations- upside is i think a better controlled spring oscillation means better road contact, or road holding capability.

conclusion is bilstein valving definitely suits harder springs more than soft springs, bilsteins on my car are only about 1 year old so far.

without telling my mate that i've changed springs, my mate commented on the change in ride quality when he was sitting at the back seat.

bear in mind my car has 27mm sway bar front and 24 rear with poly bushes on the front upper inner and caster rod, so the road surface feedback is really direct

the bump stop does visit the shock body more frequently on the kings than the teins, doesnt happen often with the kings but has happened for eg. when i hit the shallow potholes at comenarra parkway. or the far left lane on pacific hwy in chatswood going towards the city direction just before mobil service stn.

in fact they haven't had a chance to meet yet since i've got the tein mediums- i'd say its because the kings are lower and softer

they are progressive springs, but the soft section is fully closed up with the car on the ground, which makes it a single rate spring- pic attached

post-27668-0-26361700-1304752146_thumb.jpg

Edited by chiksluvit
Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
  • Author
Posted

just so people know, I contacted KING's about making me custom items, and they said its no problems. I asked about some 7kg front and 5kg's rears in standard spring design to suit bilstein shocks with circlip height adjustment and I think it was $300 per pair, and 12-15 days as they are made to order. This is the way I'm going to go.

cheers

NSNPWR Rising Star

NSNPWR

Posted
Posted

conclusion is bilstein valving definitely suits harder springs more than soft springs, bilsteins on my car are only about 1 year old so far.

I would definitely say that this is also the case with the Koni Yellows I got from Importmonster, from what ive read the valving on the Koni yellow is very hard...time for some new springs or coilovers...

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
  • Author
Posted

7kg/mm front is pretty damn hard, but I trust you know that.

yeah, not as brutal as the 10kg's with shit valving that is in there atm lol.

I'm going by what other guys who race at local tracks (symmons plains & baskerville) here are running, it will either be 7's or 6' up front with 5 or 4.5 in the rear.

  • 2 months later...
simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

I asked King Springs for 4.5kg front and 4kg rear (at catalogue lowered height) and they said they could do it BUT they won't be captive at full droop.

Mr Untouchable are your springs captive at full droop, or did you have to alter something else?

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahh forgot about this thread i'm a slack ass.

I ended up using HSD sleeve kits, so I have full height adjustment and also can run any 65MM ID spring. opens up a whole world of options and i will be running helper/retainer springs also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...