Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It has probably never been off its mount so It's stuck on there good

I'm heaps happy with my fuel gauge now I got 503 km's out of my last tank then put a 20 lt jerry through it and traveled 116 km's and filled up and could only fit 60lt in the tank of a 70lt tank

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,just bought an R33 and tried this as the fuel gauge stays full. (great tutorial)

Found the tank had about 3/4 in but i had a feel around anyway,both the pump and the sender were loose. Sender was floating around and pump was down the bottom. Would've been on it's side but for the fuel hose.

Managed to locate the fuel pump bracket but i couldn't find anywhere for the sender unit to hang on (going by feel)

Does anybody have anymore info on where the sender hanger? is located,i'm guessing that it's to the right of the pump on the back wall?

I was looking for two prongs to slide the unit onto (just a guess)

Thanks

Hi,just bought an R33 and tried this as the fuel gauge stays full. (great tutorial)

Found the tank had about 3/4 in but i had a feel around anyway,both the pump and the sender were loose. Sender was floating around and pump was down the bottom. Would've been on it's side but for the fuel hose.

Managed to locate the fuel pump bracket but i couldn't find anywhere for the sender unit to hang on (going by feel)

Does anybody have anymore info on where the sender hanger? is located,i'm guessing that it's to the right of the pump on the back wall?

I was looking for two prongs to slide the unit onto (just a guess)

Thanks

Hey buddy thanks for the kind words. In regard to the fuel sender, it slides onto the same bracket as the fuel pump does. The fuel sender is mounted on the right of the fuel pump. Hold the fuel sender in a almost vertical / slanted position in parallel with the fuel pump and front of the fuel tank. To mount the sender to the bracket you need to find the mounting tab which sticks out from the fuel sender case and then match up the mounting tab with the steel bracket on the inside of the tank and then slide the sender from right to left on to the mounting bracket. it should click into place and be seated close to the pump.

Good luck! :)

All done,i took it for a razz to empty some fuel out.

I could see the hanger,it was only a single prong and it would only go on the upper loop on the sender unit.

Also i had to slide it on from left to right,ah well it must be a series 1 thing.

Thanks DJSimmo for your help,i now have a working fuel gauge.

Better go fuel up now :thumbsup:

Edited by kosmo90
  • 1 month later...

same sort of prob with my 32gtr. anything above 1/4 and guage doesnt work... below that its fine. when i find time i will try to look at it. does anyone know if its the same sort of sender in the 32 gtr??? we;;, it works when i sit stationary on idle for a while. it creeps up. but as soon as i move the guage plays up

  • 2 months later...

Do you know the Voltage outputs of the fuel sender? Hoping its a standard 0 - 5V sender so that I can use that input into the Racepak IQ3 Dash. Wiring diagrams of that part of the car are very hard to come by.

  • 6 months later...

sorry to drag up an old thread guys, but would anyone know where I would be able to source a brand new fuel level sender? the one in my fuel tank has tabs that are too brittle to open and clean....

  • 2 months later...

How do you go about removing the sender? I have read the other thread and that just involves pulling the fuel pump up on its bracket. Is it the same arrangment for the sender (do i depress the button in the above picture?) or do i need to depress the metal clip on the bracket and pull the sender towards the passenger side?

Edited by msmith
  • 4 weeks later...

Did this today, couldn't / wouldn't have done it without this Tutorial. SAU is like a wise old friend. :thumbsup:

I thought I might add a pic or 2 or 3 that might help others having difficulty.

Besides getting that stoopid twist lid thing off, my biggest hassle was removing the sender from it's bracket.

I ended up removing the fuel pump by lifting it up, out of the bracket. (probably didn't need to but it was more for curiosity)

After much farting around trying to get the sender off its bracket, I ended up doing the same lift up and out with the bracket for the sender.

Then I could lift the back of the plastic bracket thing on the sender and gently pry it off the metal bracket with a screwdriver.

Pulled them both out of the tank and done.

Cleaned and put it all back in.

post-78856-0-75148200-1351313388_thumb.jpg post-78856-0-18981100-1351313438_thumb.jpg post-78856-0-22638300-1351315056_thumb.jpg

I should add that I plugged the sender back in before I reinstalled it and put the float to the top, switched the ignition on and yep, the needle went up to full but the fuel light came on.

I'm pretty sure the fuel light sensor is a little silver thing attached to the level sender about 3-4 inches from the bottom.

I hope this might make things a little easier for anyone wanting to do this in the future.

I thought this was going to be a good way to get to know what is involved in changing my fuel pump.

Now I know that this is actually harder, Fuel pump should be easy.

Edited by Not a Pulsar
  • 1 month later...

yep, undo the 4 bolts holding the panel on, under that is the lid dealy with the hoses and wiring plugs attached.

pull all that off and then you're in your fuel tank.

Piece of pie, easy as cake.

  • 4 months later...

Did this today, couldn't / wouldn't have done it without this Tutorial. SAU is like a wise old friend. :thumbsup:

I thought I might add a pic or 2 or 3 that might help others having difficulty.

Besides getting that stoopid twist lid thing off, my biggest hassle was removing the sender from it's bracket.

I ended up removing the fuel pump by lifting it up, out of the bracket. (probably didn't need to but it was more for curiosity)

After much farting around trying to get the sender off its bracket, I ended up doing the same lift up and out with the bracket for the sender.

Then I could lift the back of the plastic bracket thing on the sender and gently pry it off the metal bracket with a screwdriver.

Pulled them both out of the tank and done.

Cleaned and put it all back in.

attachicon.gifFuel Sender Bracket small.JPG attachicon.gifbracket.jpg attachicon.gifFuel Sender Job 2 small.JPG

I should add that I plugged the sender back in before I reinstalled it and put the float to the top, switched the ignition on and yep, the needle went up to full but the fuel light came on.

I'm pretty sure the fuel light sensor is a little silver thing attached to the level sender about 3-4 inches from the bottom.

I hope this might make things a little easier for anyone wanting to do this in the future.

I thought this was going to be a good way to get to know what is involved in changing my fuel pump.

Now I know that this is actually harder, Fuel pump should be easy.

I tried doing this yesterday but for the life of me could not get the sensor or the bracket off at all. How did you get the bracket off? looking at the pics you put up there are metal tabs that lock the bracket onto the white holder attached to the tank. I tried pulling it every direction and prying at it but couldnt move it at all. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...