Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just bought a 2nd hand ARC SMIC of off ebay for my R34 GTT. Before installing it I have have my mate who works at an intercooler manufacturer to check it out for me. He has set it up for a pressure test and it is leaking out all the bolt holes. I have tlked to the guy who sold it to me and he keeps trying to convince me that this is how it was produced. I find it extremenly hard to believe that a reputable company like arc would manufacture an intercooler which has bolt holes going into the tank and requires you to seal up bolts when you install.

IIf anyone has had any experience with these coolers or ARC and can shed some light on this for me it would be much appreciated.

post-69558-0-67795300-1304559517_thumb.jpg

post-69558-0-25845300-1304559532_thumb.jpg

on my phone so hard to see pics... but looks like its not bolt holes, and leaking from the core/end tank area?

If so... its probably been dropped or something.

It's possible it came like that and owner never knew as its not leaking heaps by the look of it.

on my phone so hard to see pics... but looks like its not bolt holes, and leaking from the core/end tank area?

If so... its probably been dropped or something.

It's possible it came like that and owner never knew as its not leaking heaps by the look of it.

It is definitely the bolt holes you can see they have been drilled through or retapped through into the tank when you look in the inlet and outlet.

The guy who sold it to me keeps harping on about making sure I seal the bolts correctly when I install it. Question is was the ARC SMIC manufactured with the bolt holes drilled through into the tank? I doubt that any intercooler manufacture would design an intercooler this way.

I work in a place that makes massive radiators and also repairs/services them and intercoolers. When we test them if there are any leaks we get them welded up. Then we test them again etc. Sounds like they stuffed up yours mate and I would send it back and get one that doesn't leak. P.s. I just bought a 600x300x100 (core size) intercooler from ebay. Only $240 to the door and doesn't even get hot :D. No leaks either :no:

I work in a place that makes massive radiators and also repairs/services them and intercoolers. When we test them if there are any leaks we get them welded up. Then we test them again etc. Sounds like they stuffed up yours mate and I would send it back and get one that doesn't leak. P.s. I just bought a 600x300x100 (core size) intercooler from ebay. Only $240 to the door and doesn't even get hot :D. No leaks either :no:

What pressure drop though? :)

Problem is, I was sold an item that was supposedly it great condition and it is obviously not.

The intercooler manufacturer where I have had it tested does not recommend using sealant in the bolt holes due to the possibility that it will come off inside the cooler and enter the engine.

He has recommended drilling out the existing threads and welding in a new section of round bar which can be tapped properly.

To me this sounds like the best and most professional way to rectify the problem.

Back to my original question, There is no way an intercooler manufacturer would intentionally drill there mounting points through into the tank? I gather this is a correct statement.

Of course they are saying that...it makes them money.

Lol at sealent not working...wtf do you think is stopping air leaks in your turbo compressor housing where it bolts to the CHRA.

They are not making any money. They are going to fix pro bono as I know the supervisor there.

And they never said that sealant wouldn't work. Sealant can fix a multitude of problems.

But my question still remains unanswered.

Would ARC make an intercooler that requires you to seal the bolt holes as they are drilled through into the tank?

Mate the easy way out is to put thread sealant (white crap) on the bolts and fit it up. We use the same crap at work for fitting plugs into big steel and copper intercoolers (called aftercoolers but whatever) and they are good to 50 psi. Sounds like someone put bolts into your cooler that were too long and wrecked it. Get it fixed if its free but other than that don't stress :thumbsup:

2 psi less pressure drop than the r34 smic that was on there. I got 2 psi more on the gauge after I fitted it. A mate has the same one on his 45 psi 600hp plus sr20 drag car :thumbsup:

but to answer your question entirely, I haven't measured it

The bolt threads are also stuffed so like Room42 suggested I reckon that the previous owner has used bolts which are too long and has overtightened and stuffed them up.

As the going says don't treat the symptoms fix the cause.

I'll be getting the unit repaired professionally with new bolt stubs installed.

Didn't really get an answer to whether or not intercoolers are manufactured with bolt holes through into the tanks or not but thanks for your help anyway.

at the risk of trying to answer the original question.....I do not know for sure, but I cannot imagine any circumstance where a professional manufacturer would drill open holes through a sealed part of the intake.

sounds much more like dodgy prior installation than original build

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...