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It's a genius piece of design, actually :rolleyes: .

Half mounted to the body and half to the rubber bushed subframe; that way you can gradually tear out half of the boot floor, then have your trailer spear off into the bushes still attached to the rear suspension of your car.

Which is now not attached to your car anymore...:thumbsup:

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I had mine fitted there too via Japlink Motors when I purchased the car.

BTW, I was in there today as my indicators don't work when the trailer is connected. all other lights work fine.

Apparently, the trailer requires LED lights so as not to draw too much current. Not sure whether this is true or not.

Sorry, my bad; Leichardt, not Chatswood,:blush: as both you & Andy said.

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I had mine fitted there too via Japlink Motors when I purchased the car.

BTW, I was in there today as my indicators don't work when the trailer is connected. all other lights work fine.

Apparently, the trailer requires LED lights so as not to draw too much current. Not sure whether this is true or not.

Rosella, I had EXACTLY the same problem as you're describing on my trailer; replaced with LED's, SOLVED!

I'll shoot you a link tonight, and you can check out the ones I got, good price, nice quality. If you like, bring em down & I'll sort it for you.

Cheers, Dale.

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Rosella, I had EXACTLY the same problem as you're describing on my trailer; replaced with LED's, SOLVED!

I'll shoot you a link tonight, and you can check out the ones I got, good price, nice quality. If you like, bring em down & I'll sort it for you.

Cheers, Dale.

I already had LED's on my trailer so never had a problem.

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I already had LED's on my trailer so never had a problem.

Drove me bezerk, I can't tell you how stoked I was when I replaced the crappy, bayonet style lamps, and the blinkers finally worked.

It must just be a resistance issue.

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I'm pleased I can get it sorted.

Andy, you're lucky to find a trailer with those kind of lights. The manufacturer of my trailer doesn't even have a computer so there's no way was he going to have LEDs for the lights. :spank:

Dale, I had to resort to hand signals. Brings back memories....:yucky:

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  • 1 year later...

There seems to be a fee topics on this with no real useful info.....

I've scouted these forums and found only 1 company in Sydney (fast fit) that will do towbars for M35's , I wasnt really happy with a 3hr fit job and a 1200kg bar

I end up using south coast towbars @ Unanderra

Cost $700, bar is custom made. And the work is great! Took a day and a bit to complete, Tongue sits nice and heigh so my trailer is nice and balanced on the ball. Rated at 1500kg

Highly recommended. It's a 1 man shop

So the service is ace.

Btw, you may read that towbars cause rear sub frame cracking... That's just not true, there is no way any bar install will go near the rear subframe

Myth busted!

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Subframe crack was never about the actual tow bar being mounted there. Thats a no-brainer. Its about weight distribution. More weight / load will inevitably go through the rear suspension, and thus, the subframe.

Feel free to load up with 1500kg, and drive a five thousand kms.

Then pronounce the myth busted.

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