Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, i was wondering what spark plugs give best performance and life in an r33 gtst, also what type of air filter is best suited, they guy at APC told me to get on thats stainless steel, and the said that K&N arnt good for a skylines air flow metre. is this true, and if so what type is best suited to my application, also what plugs would u recommend?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36364-what-spark-plugs-to-use/
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for the reply, what did they cost you? And i was under the impression that K&n filters were good, but according to this Guy at APC they aint. I hope he is wrong, coz the K&N is cheap and so i have heard is just as good as any of the jap brans eg (hks, apexi). what other mods do u have on your R33 Mark, and what boost do u run. also what hp do you have at the wheels.

i use NGK copper BCPR6ES plugs on my rb20det

cost $3 each and offer a better spark than platinum plaugs (copper is a better conductor)

for the price of one set of platinum plugs, you could change the coppers 6 times!

many people on the forums use them also. highly recommended.

as for gaps: stock cars run ok at 1.1mm (BCPR6ES-11) but once you wind the boost up, the car misfires and requires an 0.8mm gap (BCPR6ES) to run smoothly.

good luck with it all,

Warren.

K+N's are a very good aircleaner as the oil spray you use will actually trap the fine particles.

The problem is if you over oil them , it will put a coating on the airflow hotwire film which may cause idling/running issues.

You must use the oil as without it , the filter is fairly useless but don't go overboard with the spray can.

Cheers

Ken

Yean i think he was refering to the mesh, but what performance properties does this have? I think that the blitz air filter has steel mesh on the outside an dits only $159.95 at autobarn, and than i get trade discount, so should be bout $140.00 hopefully, also what booste is a good safe level, which wont effect the life of my motor or turbo, yet alowing a good power increase, eg; would 10pound be alright, coz i have heard that the standard turbo on an r33 can handle round 13psi and maybe evern 14 if your lucky but i wont my car to last.

I use the NGK BCPR6ES plugs gapped at 0.8mm and can't complain either, works a treat.

and about the stainless steel pipe, i think what the mechanic means is to replace the plastic pipe that goes from the afm to the turbo, but i dont think they actually suck in till around 200rwkw anyway.

I used to run BCPR6ES & then BCPR7ES, go 1 range colder as horsepower increases by 75-100hp. I now run BKR7EVX or BKR8EVX, why? Well the BCPR's are great up till 17-18psi but near 25psi they didn't like it much!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...