Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks like it. Are the blue bits rubber or solid?

Would say they have to be removed (try prying out with safety pin, etc) then there will be a retainer holding the pin in which will have to be pressed in (try pin again) while the wire is pulled. If you haven't done it before (& even if you have) they can be tricky/fiddly...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363751-plug-de-pin/#findComment-5804621
Share on other sites

you can but its a bugger on the sealed plugs, you will need a pin extractor tool and a lot of time on your hands?

in most cases your not going to get the wires free on sealed plugs without damage. better off and way quicker by just cutting and soldering . i take it that is a engine bay plug , off a R32-34 ? looks familar ??? or attessa ?

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363751-plug-de-pin/#findComment-5805623
Share on other sites

yep. leave the blue bits alone. the plug has two locks. the primary lock is the yellow block. that needs to come out first then the pins are individually locked. a sewing needle is enough to unlock them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363751-plug-de-pin/#findComment-5806900
Share on other sites

Stuck again, managed to remove the rubber grommets and front rubber bit

Tried to pick the barb from the front for ages but unable to get anywhere, any tricks to doing this, I'm using jeweler set screwdrivers

I'm imagining the pin has arrowhead shaped barbs

10a2589b.jpgf2031aab.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363751-plug-de-pin/#findComment-5808370
Share on other sites

pin extractor, yes your correct in the barb type connection, the pin extractor bends the barb down enough to remove the wire and re-insert again without damage, the pin extractor is much thinner then screwdrivers

jaycar sells them and if you ask the nerds(oops salesmen) working there they should show you on a connector how to push it in. it can still be a bugger to undo. make sure you take photos of the plug and even a diagram BEFORE the wires come out.. in case you haven't already

a good bright light and a magnifier glass helps see inside it.to know which side to stick the tool in.

the tool looks kinda like this one

tool link

its a test of patience !!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363751-plug-de-pin/#findComment-5808641
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...