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Jjr Dump Pipes

luvpsi

By luvpsi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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luvpsi Mentor

luvpsi

Posted
Posted

ive done a little bit of searching on this however i can only find info on the JJR dump/front pipe not the dump pipe itself. because i have the rb25det in a vl using the standard dump i want to change the dump so i can only use the dump itself not a dump/front pipe.

anyway my question is is there any mods needed to fit the JJR dump pipes i have heard that with most aftermarket dumps the wastegate flap tends to hit the inside of the dump.

before you ask main reason i want to change it is because im looking at using the hypergear ATR43 soon and i also dont run a o2 sensor and sick of the o2 sensor sitting there with no wires. i know you can get bungs but i just want a change.

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gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

The JJR dump pipes come with a hole for the 02 sensor too..

I think the newer ones they have resolved the issue of the flapper. Dont quote me though i just havnt seen a thread for a long time with any complaints.

My one fouled, i had it fixed. But then discovered that where the split pipe met the rest of the exhaust, the hole was too small for the gasses and was still causing problems. = Bin.

Either way, you have problems JJR will hook you up :)

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luvpsi Mentor

luvpsi

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Most dump pipes are made for stock front pipes are made for stoc front pipe which has a 2.5inch out let. get the 3inch front pipe and dump in one piece. they are much better option.

liek i mentioned in the first post its in a vl so the front pipe in 3inch custom but it connects to the standard dump so a dump on its own is what i need

i just want a bit of a upgrade/dress up for the dump because the standard cast looks terrible against a black engine bay haha

should i email JJR about it

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SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
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Just bought a SS 3" bellmouth dump pipe from JJR. Fits straight on. Exactly same style as old one. No issues with flap hitting. I have a Hypergear ATR43SS waiting to go onto my car with this dump...

Should be sweet!

Ill tell you though, the two bolts in the middle are a pain in the ass, especially the one closest to the strut tower. Good luck fitting any f**king tools down there. Seriously, if you can assemble the dump and turbo to each other out of the car do it that way. I done mine under the bonnet, and I could just hear the f**king leak. I tightened it up now and its fine but its a pain doing things the hard way and twice. There is no reason you can't fit it all in as one piece either... That's what Ill be doing when I do my turbo swap.

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Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

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Posted

I've managed to fit my ATR43G3 to the manifold, then fit the dump pipe to the turbo while it's in the engine bay of my R33 S1 (so no ABS unit) without TOO much trouble. It was fiddly as all f**k, though I'd hardly say the dump was the hard part. As I recall, 4/6 bolts could be done from above (though 3 were easy). I'd recommend trying to do as many as you can from underneath the car.

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SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

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I've managed to fit my ATR43G3 to the manifold, then fit the dump pipe to the turbo while it's in the engine bay of my R33 S1 (so no ABS unit) without TOO much trouble. It was fiddly as all f**k, though I'd hardly say the dump was the hard part. As I recall, 4/6 bolts could be done from above (though 3 were easy). I'd recommend trying to do as many as you can from underneath the car.

How did you find the whole process? What was the hardest and most frustrating part? Did you change the 4 studs which hold the turbo to the manifold?

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Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

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How did you find the whole process?

Simple yet difficult. I'm very mechanically minded, just don't have the first-hand experience. Previous times I've removed/fitted turbo was with Pat (Randon_I_Am) helping me out. Unfortunately he couldn't help me the last time I did it, so I had to refit it myself :P after having done it once, if I need to do it again it will be a lot easier. Took me the better part of the afternoon to get everything done, reason below why it took a lot longer than it should though....

What was the hardest and most frustrating part?

Getting the god damned f**king banjo bolt for the factory water line on the block-side to screw into the CHRA. HOLY JESUS. This is why it took me so long, this step took well over an hour inclusive of me taking a break multiple times to avoid raging and smashing something lol.

Oh also as mentioned previously, some of the nuts are just plain stupid. Like 1/8th turns of an open-ended spanner (C-spanner) at a time. Also some other nuts I'd have loved to have a ratched spanner set, though it wasn't as much of a pain.

Did you change the 4 studs which hold the turbo to the manifold?

Negative. Though when the turbo was originally fitted these studs snapped. If this is the first time undoing the nut from these studs, I'd recommend the whole soaking the absolute bejeebus out of them for days in WD40 beforehand. I ended up replacing the entire stock manifold as it would have been cheaper than having the studs removed. I think the replacement manifold I used had 20,000km on it anyway and still had perfect standard studs in it. Having said that, if you get the nuts off fine - I'd consider having a shot at removing and replacing the studs anyway.

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