Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive done a little bit of searching on this however i can only find info on the JJR dump/front pipe not the dump pipe itself. because i have the rb25det in a vl using the standard dump i want to change the dump so i can only use the dump itself not a dump/front pipe.

anyway my question is is there any mods needed to fit the JJR dump pipes i have heard that with most aftermarket dumps the wastegate flap tends to hit the inside of the dump.

before you ask main reason i want to change it is because im looking at using the hypergear ATR43 soon and i also dont run a o2 sensor and sick of the o2 sensor sitting there with no wires. i know you can get bungs but i just want a change.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363892-jjr-dump-pipes/
Share on other sites

The JJR dump pipes come with a hole for the 02 sensor too..

I think the newer ones they have resolved the issue of the flapper. Dont quote me though i just havnt seen a thread for a long time with any complaints.

My one fouled, i had it fixed. But then discovered that where the split pipe met the rest of the exhaust, the hole was too small for the gasses and was still causing problems. = Bin.

Either way, you have problems JJR will hook you up :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363892-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-5807532
Share on other sites

Most dump pipes are made for stock front pipes are made for stoc front pipe which has a 2.5inch out let. get the 3inch front pipe and dump in one piece. they are much better option.

liek i mentioned in the first post its in a vl so the front pipe in 3inch custom but it connects to the standard dump so a dump on its own is what i need

i just want a bit of a upgrade/dress up for the dump because the standard cast looks terrible against a black engine bay haha

should i email JJR about it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363892-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-5807941
Share on other sites

Just bought a SS 3" bellmouth dump pipe from JJR. Fits straight on. Exactly same style as old one. No issues with flap hitting. I have a Hypergear ATR43SS waiting to go onto my car with this dump...

Should be sweet!

Ill tell you though, the two bolts in the middle are a pain in the ass, especially the one closest to the strut tower. Good luck fitting any f**king tools down there. Seriously, if you can assemble the dump and turbo to each other out of the car do it that way. I done mine under the bonnet, and I could just hear the f**king leak. I tightened it up now and its fine but its a pain doing things the hard way and twice. There is no reason you can't fit it all in as one piece either... That's what Ill be doing when I do my turbo swap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363892-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-5808262
Share on other sites

I've managed to fit my ATR43G3 to the manifold, then fit the dump pipe to the turbo while it's in the engine bay of my R33 S1 (so no ABS unit) without TOO much trouble. It was fiddly as all f**k, though I'd hardly say the dump was the hard part. As I recall, 4/6 bolts could be done from above (though 3 were easy). I'd recommend trying to do as many as you can from underneath the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363892-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-5808374
Share on other sites

I've managed to fit my ATR43G3 to the manifold, then fit the dump pipe to the turbo while it's in the engine bay of my R33 S1 (so no ABS unit) without TOO much trouble. It was fiddly as all f**k, though I'd hardly say the dump was the hard part. As I recall, 4/6 bolts could be done from above (though 3 were easy). I'd recommend trying to do as many as you can from underneath the car.

How did you find the whole process? What was the hardest and most frustrating part? Did you change the 4 studs which hold the turbo to the manifold?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363892-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-5808410
Share on other sites

How did you find the whole process?

Simple yet difficult. I'm very mechanically minded, just don't have the first-hand experience. Previous times I've removed/fitted turbo was with Pat (Randon_I_Am) helping me out. Unfortunately he couldn't help me the last time I did it, so I had to refit it myself :P after having done it once, if I need to do it again it will be a lot easier. Took me the better part of the afternoon to get everything done, reason below why it took a lot longer than it should though....

What was the hardest and most frustrating part?

Getting the god damned f**king banjo bolt for the factory water line on the block-side to screw into the CHRA. HOLY JESUS. This is why it took me so long, this step took well over an hour inclusive of me taking a break multiple times to avoid raging and smashing something lol.

Oh also as mentioned previously, some of the nuts are just plain stupid. Like 1/8th turns of an open-ended spanner (C-spanner) at a time. Also some other nuts I'd have loved to have a ratched spanner set, though it wasn't as much of a pain.

Did you change the 4 studs which hold the turbo to the manifold?

Negative. Though when the turbo was originally fitted these studs snapped. If this is the first time undoing the nut from these studs, I'd recommend the whole soaking the absolute bejeebus out of them for days in WD40 beforehand. I ended up replacing the entire stock manifold as it would have been cheaper than having the studs removed. I think the replacement manifold I used had 20,000km on it anyway and still had perfect standard studs in it. Having said that, if you get the nuts off fine - I'd consider having a shot at removing and replacing the studs anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363892-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-5808509
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...