Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which car should i choose?

Background:

My first decent cars was a 97 180sx when i was about 19. It was in great nick, with very minor mods (cat back, possible aftermarket suspension). I absolutely loved this car, and felt that it was the best handling car i could imagine. It was just so easy to feel in touch with, driving at it's limit a breeze. I owned a couple of very quick old school rotaries after that. They weren't like nothing else but weren't the best handler. Recently i purchased a really nice R34 gtt, with plenty of mods and pretty decent power.... but it just doesn't feel as pleasurable to drive as my old 180. So, i'm thinking about trying to find something a bit smaller, and i was just wondering if anybody could give me some good advice on which car might be best. I'm budgeting around $20k, and looks are not really a concern for me. It will be used mostly on the street, with handling being my main priority. At the moment my thoughts are:

s13 +mods, s15 +some mods, fd rx7 +some mods, r32 +mods.

How do r32's compare to s13's? Are they very agile/chuckable?

Please try to be as unbiased as possible with your responses, preferably they'll be from experience too. I'm not really interested in "haven't driven either but would definitely go the skyline", etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364266-silvia-vs-skyline-vs-rx7/
Share on other sites

i have owned a s15 and a r32 gtr. they are very different cars, as expected. S15 had a good feel to it regarding handling and mods are cheaper than that of the gtr. however the awd system is a whole diferent story in the gtr as you would imagine and you have a lot more fun through roundabouts and round corners at faster speeds. although you can switch to rwd mode, this still cannot be compared however to the rear-end happy s15 as you prettty much can get the tail out with minimal power - as with most s-chassis.

If you want the car to be similar to the 180sx, i would go the s15 as it is more modern than a s13 and will be a more streetable car than the other choices.

i lent towards rx7 at once stage too, but too unreliable and cost a lot to rebuild as you would know.

The s15 does really appeal to me. Are they really that much different to an s13, especially once a couple of mods are thrown into the equation? An fd with an sr20 would be nice. I haven't really thought about the evo actually. How do they feel to drive? I've just got this innate belief that awd's would understeer.

I have had my s15 for 9 years. Won PCOTY (2002 I think?) no other car under 100k can claim that achievement. A drivers car. Chassis balance is extremely fun. Its a modders dream car. Its also a police defect magnet like no other. Mine has 230rwkw and as my daily I just cant see better value for money anywhere else. They look far sexier than skylines but the rx7 is still a sexier car than both.

Oh yeah perhaps that is true but i was referring to the motor magazine one. I'm pretty sure I read that but my memory doesn't always serve me well.

Thanks for the correction Zebra. Can you list those 'plenty of cars'?

S15s are terrible in the mechanical arena.

Gearboxes are weak as piss, and they make mince meat out of diffs as well.

Thats what happens when you try and fit another gear into the same size housing i guess, you have to compromise strength.

Pity S13/S14 look like poop as they are mechanically much better choices.

PCOTY/BFYB - stuff those motor mag reviews and shit. They mean sweet fk all when you are talking modification.

PCOTY/BFYB - stuff those motor mag reviews and shit. They mean sweet fk all when you are talking modification.

And you just have to look at some of the cars that win those things and your sitting there scratching your head on how they won.

I don't mind the look of some s13's... i think they tend to look better in the flesh too. s14a fronts look the goods but thats about it for the s14 imo. Performance wise would a similarly modded s13 and s15 be any different? I guess not worrying too much about looks (and not minding the look of an s13 anyway), if they were identical performance wise i'd choose the one that's half the price. Chassis wise is their much difference between the r32 and the s13? The r32 is a reasonably light car is it not? I kind of like the idea of starting with a cheap but solid platform then adding what i wish.

I don't mind the look of some s13's... i think they tend to look better in the flesh too. s14a fronts look the goods but thats about it for the s14 imo. Performance wise would a similarly modded s13 and s15 be any different? I guess not worrying too much about looks (and not minding the look of an s13 anyway), if they were identical performance wise i'd choose the one that's half the price. Chassis wise is their much difference between the r32 and the s13? The r32 is a reasonably light car is it not? I kind of like the idea of starting with a cheap but solid platform then adding what i wish.

s13 and r32 (gtst) are very similar handeling wise , the slightly longer wheelbase is noticable and the front suspension is slightly harder to modify . S chassis versus each other , the s15 is definately better than an s13 , thanks to wheelbase/suspension geometry , best bang for buck is the s14 s1 though (mainly because of its lack of pretty)

  • 3 weeks later...

R32 gts-t's can be picked up for a fair bit less than an s15 or an RX7... This would leave you more money to modify the handling. With a good set of coilovers, strut braces, decent wheels/tyres and a hicas lock bar I think you will find it to be a very fun car!

*Edit - I know you said looks aren't important but s13's are not a nice looking car... they look really aged imo:

Eeeekkk...

Nissan_13_silvia.jpg

Edited by r32line

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...