Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler Piping Keeps Blowing Off Help Plz

SYC-033

By SYC-033,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SYC-033 Contributor

SYC-033

Posted
Posted

whilst driving the other day i accellerated from first to second and the intercooloer piping on the right side blew off from the silicone hose as did the vaccum hose from the blowoff valve to the plenum have recently brought new vaccum hose and new stronger hose clamps but the intercooler piping still seems to blow off any ideas on what would be happening? any help would be great

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

Take all the joiners apart and give them a good wash and degreasing! It's not about how tight you clamp it back together, if there's oily residue between the rubber joiner and metal piping it will still slip off!

I learned the hard way too :P

zoidbergmerc Mentor

zoidbergmerc

Posted
Posted

also if the piping does not have a lip or little weld tacs on the end get these done that way the clamp cant slip over the edge also

The Ebay IC cooler kit I got for my VL didn't have this either, I just made a cone out of wood and bashed that into the pipes to put a flange on it...

Good times...pirate.gif

Cheddle Enthusiast

Cheddle

Posted
Posted

as above, give it a good clean with brake cleaner or such to ensure no residues and then have a crack on the pipes with some heavy grit glass-paper to scuff it up and give the pipes something to hold on to. other wise take them to an exaughst shop and get a bead of weld tacked around it.

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

As other have said, but instead of finding something to bash the pipe to make a lip, I got one of those adjustable wrenches and slowly worked my way around the edge and flared it out, worked perfectly since because that was the pain in the ass one I had to keep half pulling off my front bar to get to.

horrace Rising Star

horrace

Posted
Posted

The Ebay IC cooler kit I got for my VL didn't have this either, I just made a cone out of wood and bashed that into the pipes to put a flange on it...

Good times...pirate.gif

f**k yeah backyarding like a BOSS!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • GTSBoy
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...