Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

What do you guys think about the idea of selling our GTR and buying one of the two Evos below.

We've listed the GTR for sale on our equivalent of ebay (trademe) to test the waters http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =376996079

Below are the two cars that have caught our eye.

Mitsubishi Evo GT2/GT1

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =375962251

GT1 650HP Mitsubishi Evo II

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =375839926

Our thinking is we want to go faster and to get the GTR to go even remotely fast we would need to spend $10,000s to get it close. The GTR will always be a lot heavier.

We're thinking it would be safer to quit with the GTR now and buy something that someone else has spent $100,000s on already.

We love the GTR and the pedigree it comes from but we really don't want to shell out tonnes of money constantly when we can take advantage of someone who already had.

Some of you (probably most) will hate Evos but from a pure laptime / racecar perspective is it a good idea?

What are you thoughts?

Ollie.

Edited by OLLIE_NZ

That black EVO has been for sale for over 1 year from memory was like 60k when it first went on the market.

Think you need to go put an offer on this been for sale for a very very long time as well.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Specialist-cars/Competition-cars/auction-371875696.htm

I can completely understand your situation.

To get a Gtr up anywhere near the pace of those cars will take mega bucks, time, and patience.

The first link looks best to be, the car just sounds a lot "fresher".

How do those lap times compare to a V8 Supercar at Poke?

Being a relatively staunch sort of a GTR fanatic and having watched your build progress, my first reaction is Noooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

But, having one is my workshop and realising how far I have yet to go to be competitive, I do start to have second thoughts??

I'm looking forward to the experence with no real ambitions to be a world beater.... Love the GTR's and want to be out there in one....

But....... Hard to say but if ya want to be top of the tree then there are cheaper and easier ways to do it...

Spotted your car on TradeMe and good luck wiyh the auction :thumbsup:

That black EVO has been for sale for over 1 year from memory was like 60k when it first went on the market.

Think you need to go put an offer on this been for sale for a very very long time as well.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Specialist-cars/Competition-cars/auction-371875696.htm

GT-R looks to be a bit of a weapon!

To the original poster, I recently sold a car I'd been building for years and in hindsight would most definitely have bought something with all the hard work already done. As said above, the amount of time, money and patience was not worth it for me despite the satisfaction you have of building something to your liking.

agree with marlin, the first car looks like the go to me despite it's lap times not quite as quick yet as the second car. that could easily be down to driver though anyway.

I do think it might be tough to get $30K for your car though? with basic suspension and (as best I can tell) standard engine and brakes it's fairly basic overall. does have a nice cage but to be a competitive open class track car it still needs a lot of $$$ to spend.

Cheers for the replies so far fellas.

I think the V8 Supercars used to do sonewhere between 55 and 57 seconds per lap around Pukekohe.

I think the last time they raced here was in 2007 though.

We're obviously trying to get what we can for the GTR as any seller would :). Don't forget my prices I've listed are in NZD $$$

yeah but aren't 32 GTR (and most imports) dirt cheap in NZ due to lack of restriction on imports? I know NZD is not quite = AUD but it's not far off right? typically I've seen comparable imports are quite a bit cheaper in NZ. I'd say a car like yours would be worth low 20s in AUD. but yeah of course get whatever the market will pay. :)

Exactly :)

The man is talking about going to the dark side gentlemen....... are you going to let him?!?!?!

Every other prick is doing it lol, might as well :P

But we all know what it costs to get a GTR to the level those cars are at, and it'll cost a lot more even if they only get 20k for it.

If you have a purpose, and an aim, makes sense to sell and swap if you wanna save some coins. Its a logical and fair choice.

With the evos keep in mind a lot of the serious guys life parts.

They're simply not as durable as nissans, so you'll be replacing, rebuilding, or inspecting items like engine, gearbox, driveshafts, diffs etc.....

Are you competing in a series?

What it your reasoning wanting a highly strung turbo AWD car?

I'd go with a late model evo any day as sad as it is.

The only reason I haven't is every second person has one ,its next to impossible to stand out on a grid full or them and no matter what you do there will still be a faster evo that yours anyways!

It makes sence to buy a competitive car. Your lucky in nz with your fia cage regs. If a car comes here from the USA or nz 90% of the time the cage has to be extensively modified to meet our stupid requirements ( something that is changing in 2012) which seems to prevent alot of existing racers being imported.

I have an ex NZ galant coming next week to have the cage reworked, original NZ owner who moved here his pissed he can't race it without spending a few grand changing the car around to get a log book.

I think you should stay with the GTR... Evos are great and all but they zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

...oh shit, I started thinking about evos and fell asleep here on my desk... weird

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...