Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ECU detects speed limit reached, cuts fuel, car slows down below limiter, fuel re-engages, car speeds up again and repeat.

Therefore the needle will just bounce back and forth off 180km/h.

I thought on most models the ECU backed of the timing to the point where the car simply can't accelerate anymore? Wouldn't on/off fuel risk damage?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365101-speed-limiters/#findComment-5825490
Share on other sites

Pretty sure it is fuel cut. Most cars use a fuel cut on speed limit and on rev limiter. It doesn't damage the engine since there is no fuel to burn, therefore no combustion.

Ignition cut is what the BeeR Revlimiter and antilag uses.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365101-speed-limiters/#findComment-5825551
Share on other sites

I can tell you from experience at track days that it is a very smooth process in practise. The car just stops accelerating and speedo needle climbs no further ( though on my car needle is off end of scale- guessing about 190kph position - speedo error!).

It is different in lower gears though and on the skid pan in 2nd gear it will bounce off the fuel cut rhythmically if you let it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365101-speed-limiters/#findComment-5825583
Share on other sites

The electronic throttle closes as if you backed off to hold that speed. Very accurate too, every pass I did at Calder was 171kph by their measurement.

The maximum throttle opening I have seen with the Stagea is 86%, at launch it bogs down because the throttle is limited to 36%.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365101-speed-limiters/#findComment-5825641
Share on other sites

Pretty sure it is fuel cut. Most cars use a fuel cut on speed limit and on rev limiter. It doesn't damage the engine since there is no fuel to burn, therefore no combustion.

Ignition cut is what the BeeR Revlimiter and antilag uses.

Wouldn't it be a noticeable "bounce" off the limiter if it's a fuel cut? One GTST i've been in (private property), the limiter just stopped the car accelerating quite smoothly, rather than the usual "derp, a, derp, a, derp, a"

How does it keep the limiter "smooth"?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365101-speed-limiters/#findComment-5825907
Share on other sites

Progressive fuel cut maybe? Not 100% on that one. I have hit the stock limiter in the R33 back in the day and yeah it is very smooth.

In the Vipec you can choose what type of cut you want. You can also set up a 2 way setup for a soft cut and a hard cut so my actual limiter in the car is very smooth now, similar to what the speed limiter was.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365101-speed-limiters/#findComment-5825960
Share on other sites

Progressive fuel cut maybe? Not 100% on that one. I have hit the stock limiter in the R33 back in the day and yeah it is very smooth.

In the Vipec you can choose what type of cut you want. You can also set up a 2 way setup for a soft cut and a hard cut so my actual limiter in the car is very smooth now, similar to what the speed limiter was.

That's interesting. Might need to do a bit more research. That's what I meant, the speed limiter is different to the rev limiter, where the engine reaches say 7000rpm, then just cuts out and effectively starts again. While the speed limiter is more like lifting your foot off the throttle, yet it's cable operated.

You'd think a fuel cut to sound/act like the rev limiter (lol, it is a fuel cut), yet the speed limiter is more of a wall rather than an on/off/on/off. The car doesn't have any means of restricting air intake, so it's either fuel or ignition adjustment to slow things down? But removing fuel partially would make it run lean?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365101-speed-limiters/#findComment-5826085
Share on other sites

So annoying this feature. Japs make such fast cars then limit it... My speedometre stops at 180km/ph.

On one track day at Eastern Creek, was over taken by 2 cars down the main straight cause I was just bouncing on 180.

I didnt feel any cut off jerks or the feeling of slowing down, the car just wasnt going any faster.

So yeah, back to what T4NK was saying. How do we fix this?

And when the limiter is cleared, how would we replace the speedometre on the dash so it reads above 180 (like from an US market G35) and also reconfigure the dials so the needle is acurate with the speed of the car.

Edited by Bourbon Boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365101-speed-limiters/#findComment-5827990
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...