Jump to content
SAU Community

Basic Things I Need To Get Some Sideways Action


black hawk
 Share

Recommended Posts

Basic mods will be enough to get you started sliding like cooler exhuast , some suspension work such as coilovers and a diff shim if you diff is in really bad nick. To get started you will be fine with the power you have at the moment as you get better if you decide to stick with it slowly add more mods to accommodate for your increase in ability when you start to feel your car is holding you back.

For example when you get to the stage you want to be sliding corners in third gear and notice the car might struggle to do it from lack of power you might add want to add some power but yeah as other said just go out see what the car can do and then tweak it for the next time theres no need to begin with a full powerful d1 drift car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A friend of mine regularly drifts his s14 at winton with a welded diff, coilovers, front mount and exhaust.

Stock power does him fine and car is reliable.

Stick with the bare minimum expenditure, and give it a go to see if you like it.

As an example....

Diff - Free if you can find a friend with a welder.

Coilovers - second hand ones can be had for approx 600

Exhaust - not essential second hand about 150

Front mount - not essential but average 300

Entry fee - 180

Aasa licence per drift day - 50

Tyres - 50-100 per tyre etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Removing the Hicas by getting a Hicas Lock bar also really helps for drifting.. They go for around $100-150...

And as most of the people are saying the handling mods are more important than just making high power, Without the handling mods your car wont drift smoothly..

I would say go for

1] Hicas Lock Bar

2] Adjustable Coilovers

3] Whitleline Rear Sway bar

And 200kw is good enough to start drifting with, You should learn to control the car before giving it more power..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Power is bad. Most of the time people spin out when trying to drift its because they put down to much power! If you really are suffering from a lack of power then go the cheap option and whack some horrible, skinny tyres on the rear.

As for other mods get a 2-way diff for sure. I'd get coilovers too if you can afford them. Mine doesn't have coilovers and whilst I can kick it out one way and maintain some control, trying to link my drifts up in my yacht up is damn near impossible with stock suspension. It just snaps back so damn hard. Maybe I just suck at drifting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

iv got a 33 now and all it has is a welded diff, compressed springs, fmic, boost controller and mate this thing slides really good. i can can the 33 out better than my old 180sx which had 245kw. learn how to drift in a stock car then if u want power do it later.

so i would say get a fmic, diff and coilovers and ull be fine..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

iv got a 33 now and all it has is a welded diff, compressed springs, fmic, boost controller and mate this thing slides really good. i can can the 33 out better than my old 180sx which had 245kw. learn how to drift in a stock car then if u want power do it later.

so i would say get a fmic, diff and coilovers and ull be fine..

lol do you own that yellow one? or that green (or was it orange)? the 2 skylines are like 3 houses away from each other

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm suprised no one has mentioned a decent seat, it can go a long way and you won't need to worry about your seating position constantly while drifting.

I'd be doing minimal mods at first, consisting of:

Coilovers/shock+spring combo

A decent seat, fixed back will hold alot better obviously

Some form of diff, lockers are very predictable and easy to slide with.

That's the bare essentials, it's better to learn with "not enough" power than too much, it'll teach you throttle control and be pretty forgiving when you slip up.

When you feel you've mastered the car in it's current form (i.e power and lock) then run out and get some inner/outer tie rods (or knuckles) and start bolting some other parts on.

Most of all, have fun with it :thumbsup:

Edited by Run-It-Hard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Absolutely. All the stuff you have can be installed with help on the forums. Don't spend any more cash except on a tune after you install all that good stuff. Then get out and practice.

Bogans have been drifting for many years. I reckon you have to be taught. I am sure people here will offer to do so at the special days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are you doing with the car? Drags, sprints, racing? A decent upgrade of dba 4000 rotors, good quality pads (endless, project mu, intima are all I have used), quality fluid and braided lines. All have held up to multiple big track days and street duties. No need for big fancy kits as some also require significant energy to come upto operating temp. Look at 350z caliper and rotor upgrade too.  @Dose Pipe Sutututu comment on them and did a good write up.
    • I've driven that one and it's a great deal and drives nice. The owner definitely treats it right on track. You would have gotten it for what you paid for this one too.   Keen to see what you do to this one. 
    • I have a question with regards to R34 GTR guards. All the info here is quite old. Useful, but old. At what point does the bumper itself become a clearance issue with wide wheels on a R34 GTR, specifically the part I've drawn in red here: All of the info that people post about implies that 285 is as far as you'd go before scrubbing becomes an issue, but they speak of hitting the inner plastic liners, not the bumper itself. Just how wide could you go if you took the liners out? Has anyone done it? I have been messing with my own car and spacers and heavily cursed my lack of planning, but I might not feel so bad if there's actually no gains to be had by going a GTR guard and front bar combination for $5k+ of money I do not have after spending about that much already on my solution which now has problems. (Woo) At least I now know why GTR guards and bumpers flare out like this over their GTT lesser cousins. I feel that in 2024, someone has gone further and attempted to run 315's or somesuch on the front of a R34 GTR. If you have, please post. If you're tried and failed for some other reason definitely post so I feel better about my mistakes
    • Genuine URAS Type R front guards in FRP. These will fit a GTT. They will only fit a GTT. If you have a GT or GTT and want wider fenders with a Z tune look up top, this is what you want. You use this with a regular GTT fitment bar. Not a GTR bar. They fit GTT guard liners and plastics, not GTR items. So if you're reading this thinking "Ah! I have a GTT or GT and want wider front guards that bolt directly on, but do not want the hassle of changing my bonnet and bumper and plastics and undertrays or anything else, this is what you want. The fitment is annoyingly perfect. I really would rather someone pick these up in person and not ship them. SE Melb.
×
×
  • Create New...