Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basic mods will be enough to get you started sliding like cooler exhuast , some suspension work such as coilovers and a diff shim if you diff is in really bad nick. To get started you will be fine with the power you have at the moment as you get better if you decide to stick with it slowly add more mods to accommodate for your increase in ability when you start to feel your car is holding you back.

For example when you get to the stage you want to be sliding corners in third gear and notice the car might struggle to do it from lack of power you might add want to add some power but yeah as other said just go out see what the car can do and then tweak it for the next time theres no need to begin with a full powerful d1 drift car.

A friend of mine regularly drifts his s14 at winton with a welded diff, coilovers, front mount and exhaust.

Stock power does him fine and car is reliable.

Stick with the bare minimum expenditure, and give it a go to see if you like it.

As an example....

Diff - Free if you can find a friend with a welder.

Coilovers - second hand ones can be had for approx 600

Exhaust - not essential second hand about 150

Front mount - not essential but average 300

Entry fee - 180

Aasa licence per drift day - 50

Tyres - 50-100 per tyre etc

Removing the Hicas by getting a Hicas Lock bar also really helps for drifting.. They go for around $100-150...

And as most of the people are saying the handling mods are more important than just making high power, Without the handling mods your car wont drift smoothly..

I would say go for

1] Hicas Lock Bar

2] Adjustable Coilovers

3] Whitleline Rear Sway bar

And 200kw is good enough to start drifting with, You should learn to control the car before giving it more power..

Power is bad. Most of the time people spin out when trying to drift its because they put down to much power! If you really are suffering from a lack of power then go the cheap option and whack some horrible, skinny tyres on the rear.

As for other mods get a 2-way diff for sure. I'd get coilovers too if you can afford them. Mine doesn't have coilovers and whilst I can kick it out one way and maintain some control, trying to link my drifts up in my yacht up is damn near impossible with stock suspension. It just snaps back so damn hard. Maybe I just suck at drifting.

iv got a 33 now and all it has is a welded diff, compressed springs, fmic, boost controller and mate this thing slides really good. i can can the 33 out better than my old 180sx which had 245kw. learn how to drift in a stock car then if u want power do it later.

so i would say get a fmic, diff and coilovers and ull be fine..

iv got a 33 now and all it has is a welded diff, compressed springs, fmic, boost controller and mate this thing slides really good. i can can the 33 out better than my old 180sx which had 245kw. learn how to drift in a stock car then if u want power do it later.

so i would say get a fmic, diff and coilovers and ull be fine..

lol do you own that yellow one? or that green (or was it orange)? the 2 skylines are like 3 houses away from each other

I'm suprised no one has mentioned a decent seat, it can go a long way and you won't need to worry about your seating position constantly while drifting.

I'd be doing minimal mods at first, consisting of:

Coilovers/shock+spring combo

A decent seat, fixed back will hold alot better obviously

Some form of diff, lockers are very predictable and easy to slide with.

That's the bare essentials, it's better to learn with "not enough" power than too much, it'll teach you throttle control and be pretty forgiving when you slip up.

When you feel you've mastered the car in it's current form (i.e power and lock) then run out and get some inner/outer tie rods (or knuckles) and start bolting some other parts on.

Most of all, have fun with it :thumbsup:

Edited by Run-It-Hard

Absolutely. All the stuff you have can be installed with help on the forums. Don't spend any more cash except on a tune after you install all that good stuff. Then get out and practice.

Bogans have been drifting for many years. I reckon you have to be taught. I am sure people here will offer to do so at the special days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...