Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I spoke with Danny a little while ago about this..

he saw his car pop up on carsales for about 12k, he thought the person had problems with it after a few of the parts were removed. and wanted a quick sale.. Danny was tempted to buy it back..

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

To expand on the dodgy KM comment from Craig.

He bought the car with a claimed 45k km's approx. When he changed the Air Con filter, the filter had the odometer reading written on it of 53000km and dated 2 years earlier. So somehow the car had traveled negative 12000km in 2 years..

The shocks on the car were KYB from memory. Also the if you have a look behind the plastic flares on the rear wheels you will see the guards have been knocked back with a hammer to stop them rubbing on the tyres.

Cheers

Andy

I'm not saying anything more....but those km's are unrealistic!blink.gif

Whaat? Are you saying that my car hasn't really done 80k km's!!

LOL...mine came with 69xxx km's when I bought it...came from Japlink Motors who are supposed to be pretty good...

Then again when I did a Stateroads test on the car they reckon the km's are dodgy...

moral of the story...don't buy imports based on km's!!

Whaat? Are you saying that my car hasn't really done 80k km's!!

LOL...mine came with 69xxx km's when I bought it...came from Japlink Motors who are supposed to be pretty good...

Then again when I did a Stateroads test on the car they reckon the km's are dodgy...

moral of the story...don't buy imports based on km's!!

mine were a legit 67,000 i think..

i had privately imported through SSV and asked for the japanese government papers.. i think it was done about 6 months prior to being shipped and the papers said 61,000 or something..

but thats probably why I spent abit more for mine.. came to 20k on road...

Hey Aaron (Pot), for your reference

proper-use-of-your-and-there.jpg

thats the stupidest enlish i've heard? what the f**k is wrong with you lol

Its THEIR car.

there is "look over there"

Their is and ownership word.

are you taking the piss again :glare:

Thanks guys , you have put me off buying this one!!! Any experience with gt high performance at kirrawee??? They have a nice black one 

I live in Kirrawee, never heard if gt high performance, there a few dodgy places around here, if u tell me where it is I might be able to take a look

Looking at Northshore prestige now, bit pricier !!

spend more......it will save you in the end!

If you want a fully modified one.......no more money to spend I happen to know where one is! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
    • Hello everyone, I am happy to join you.
    • Whereabouts are you, that looks exactly like Akira's old car....
×
×
  • Create New...