Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HIGuys,

Unsure if you saw my post in the newbies thread, but I am a skyline newbielooking for a few thoughts... I have long been a V8 performance fan, havingowned a number of fuel guzzling Fords, and Holden’s over the past 7 years ofhaving my license; but now I am getting a little older and a little more consciousthat V8 just isn’t everything any more - the V35 350GT puts out just as much asmy current ride (which was inconveniently stolen, and badly damaged), with only3/4 the amount of cylinders and I am positive it's much more efficient too.Anyways enough of that!

I am currently looking at the 2004/5ish 350GT Sedan as my next mode oftransport, and I am yet to take one for a test drive but I am a little unsureof the Constantly Variable Transmission (CVT) in these things; after watching afew YouTube videos last night I think I have afair grasp of how it works... Itappears as though it brings the engine upto the rev range and stays there, oneof my questions is what RPM does it sit on at freeway speeds?.. Does it dropback the RPM once at cruising speed, if so I can see it be fantastic on fuel whilstcruising the freeway.

Next question, I drive a fair percentage of freeway kms, but I also likespirited driving on the windy back roads we have around Brisbane, and GoldCoast, how does the CVT fair in conditions like this, is the manual mode(paddle shift) a good option when it comes to these sorts of conditions? Alsois there any risk of damaging the transmission if the car is left in manualmode for any length of time?

As mentioned above, I am yet to take one for a drive but from what I am told Iam sure I won't be turning back to the old Holden any time soon - the V35 looksto be somewhat more classy, and is bound to turn heads

Anycomments you can offer will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

-Cul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365652-cvt-opinions-350gt-sedan/
Share on other sites

People who buy the CVT and don't maintain it or haven't got the money to fix problems when they go wrong don't like them.

To answer your questions:

I have a 350GT8 and have had it for 11months,

I drive freeway every day to work , on the freeway the RPMs sit at 2000 near the whole time , generally am either going 90kmp/h or 100-110km and it will comfortably sit at 2000rpms,

As you accelerate depending on how much you put ur foot down the car will pick rpms and sit there till you back off once reaching the desired speeds , generally when accelerating the car dosn't need to go past 3000rpms to reach speed quite quickly then drops back to >2000rpms

USING THE PADDLE SHIFTS IN THESE CARS ARE AMAZING. The shifts are near instantaneous and unlike other makes and models the car lets you drive it how you want without shifting itself whenever it feels like. It will only shift itself when it hits redline or drops below 1000rpms

I go on spirited drives quite regularly on some local VERY twisty mountain roads and the thing is amazing.

Also the power of the car is quite good. Have left many V8 owners scratching heads and car is quite capable to beat many cars , left my mates 260rs Stagea far behind, as few other models

People who buy the CVT and don't maintain it or haven't got the money to fix problems when they go wrong don't like them.

To answer your questions:

I have a 350GT8 and have had it for 11months,

I drive freeway every day to work , on the freeway the RPMs sit at 2000 near the whole time , generally am either going 90kmp/h or 100-110km and it will comfortably sit at 2000rpms,

As you accelerate depending on how much you put ur foot down the car will pick rpms and sit there till you back off once reaching the desired speeds , generally when accelerating the car dosn't need to go past 3000rpms to reach speed quite quickly then drops back to >2000rpms

USING THE PADDLE SHIFTS IN THESE CARS ARE AMAZING. The shifts are near instantaneous and unlike other makes and models the car lets you drive it how you want without shifting itself whenever it feels like. It will only shift itself when it hits redline or drops below 1000rpms

I go on spirited drives quite regularly on some local VERY twisty mountain roads and the thing is amazing.

Also the power of the car is quite good. Have left many V8 owners scratching heads and car is quite capable to beat many cars , left my mates 260rs Stagea far behind, as few other models

That was the info I was after, hoping test drive one inthe next week or so!.. :-)

As for the maintenance, it’s like any car if you maintain it properly you won’thave a great deal of issues.

That was the info I was after, hoping test drive one inthe next week or so!.. :-)

As for the maintenance, it’s like any car if you maintain it properly you won’thave a great deal of issues.

Its not about how you maintain the car, its more about how it was maintained/or not in the past. I have no doubt the CVT8 is great. My Merc is a CVT too and I love it. There is already plenty of evidence and bad experiences documented in this forum if you do a thorough search with regards to the CVT8. You will be taking a huge gamble if you do buy one...

By all means test drive one but please do not buy before test driving a S2 5AT 350GT sedan. 12/04 onwards

I test drove a CVT8 few years ago...did a bit of research and chose the 5AT instead, this is my 4th year of owning it and it has never skipped a beat.

Wellthat’s true I probably couldn't agree more with your top statement; my old SSCommodore is a fine example of this it was poorly maintained before I got it(dispite having a good service history in the log book), and no matter how wellI looked after it there would always be something going wrong with it... I likethe idea of the CVT, but I am not quite sold on it - a 5AT or 6MT would befantastic but I am finding them pretty hard to come by in my price range unfortunately.

Price is also a good indication....there is a reason why the CVTs are priced well below the 5AT versions of similar year. BTW, what price range are you looking at?

I am looking anywhere between 15k and 25k, but it will be more dependant on what my exsisting car sells for - there is quite a few good looking coupes in that price range; but not a great deal of sedans; obviously the coupe was the more popular import.

I'm not completely close minded about the coupe though as I hear they are pretty good in the back; just sucks there is no middle seat for the baby seat.

I am itching to take both a sedan, and a coupe for a drive and see which I prefer.

listen to nismo - he speaketh the truth :)

take a later sedan for a run. you will like it. I have driven nismo's one a few times and it has more than enough poke to do what you want. now if you like the idea of paddles - buy the earlier 5sp auto and then swap the paddles from the CVT8 into it. I have been privy to a few horror stories on CVT8s now and most are bad. I had one kid blame a stereo shop in maroochydore for his failing. (all the y did was replace the radio for him) another with random issues that would not appear on my scanner.

buy the car you want but at the same point make DAMN sure you know what you are buying and DO NOT look at distance covered. I wrote the thread mentioned above for a reason :)

The price of the cvt8 makes them an absolute bargain with or without issues. At the end of the day a 5 speed auto (puke) or the six speed isnt that difficult a conversion if it fails just a major pain the in the ass.

I nearly bought one a month or two ago at auction with "transmission issues" if it was terminal which id be suprised if it was, then convert to six speed if its done properly it would practically increase in value provided you undertake the work yourself.

I totally disagree about the 5 speed with paddels its just a total waste of time on that pathetic slow shifting piece of crap. This is coming from someone who has owned both at the same time though.

People should be informed before purchasing one.

Edited by austingtir

The price of the cvt8 makes them an absolute bargain with or without issues. At the end of the day a 5 speed auto (puke) or the six speed isnt that difficult a conversion if it fails just a major pain the in the ass.

I nearly bought one a month or two ago at auction with "transmission issues" if it was terminal which id be suprised if it was, then convert to six speed if its done properly it would practically increase in value provided you undertake the work yourself.

I totally disagree about the 5 speed with paddels its just a total waste of time on that pathetic slow shifting piece of crap. This is coming from someone who has owned both at the same time though.

People should be informed before purchasing one.

You probably drove the 5AT in a series one. Try a series 2 5AT...I have owned and driven both and they are miles apart, needless to say I have kept the series 2.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...