Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The main thing about the ones i have are they sit in the stock position and being from SA where they enjoy defecting everything that's wha really appealed to me. Although it won't be a daily driven car and iv been pulled over more in my stock vs commondore than i have in the skyline.

  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The main thing about the ones i have are they sit in the stock position and being from SA where they enjoy defecting everything that's wha really appealed to me. Although it won't be a daily driven car and iv been pulled over more in my stock vs commondore than i have in the skyline.

that's a fair concern,

Both -5's

and GT-RS sit in stock position as do a myriad of other high powered twin setups.

there is definitely a pair to accommodate your power needs.

Ye just get -5s like everyone else. About your only option mate if low mounts/defects is the main concern, especially if its a street car.

Factory size, Garrett housing, everything bolts up and you'll make 370-400rwkw depending on the motor.

Yea the bottom end has the works. All except extended sump. But has a baffle kit in. Got forged pistons, rods bearing what ever else i got in the build. It was a head gasket down build. As nothing was done with the head except for a face pressure test and what ever else they did to it. As at the time i was un certain of the direction of the car!

Bottom end done as in... A 'typical' bottom end, or one built to take 9000rpm+

Big big difference between the two!

Ye just get -5s like everyone else. About your only option mate if low mounts/defects is the main concern, especially if its a street car.

Factory size, Garrett housing, everything bolts up and you'll make 370-400rwkw depending on the motor.

Bottom end done as in... A 'typical' bottom end, or one built to take 9000rpm+

Big big difference between the two!

There is a place, where nobody dared to go, and It isn't called Xanadu, its called GT-RS on a 2.6 litre for a street car.

Olivia newton John will not bring your response back to you on roller blades.

Agree with Ash 100% althought I think you could possibly make a tad more then 400rwkw.

Yep, -5s all the way

We built a car while i was working at Advan Performance that ran -5's with a healthy head and sensible cams and on about 24psi of boost made about 450rwkw on BP Ultimate. Thats more power than you will ever need on the street and also a very healthy power figure for the track.

Using these you wont need to worry about defects, you wont need to build a bottom end capable of 9500rpm and you will get much better response than you could ever dream of getting with the 2835's.

Yep, -5s all the way

We built a car while i was working at Advan Performance that ran -5's with a healthy head and sensible cams and on about 24psi of boost made about 450rwkw on BP Ultimate. Thats more power than you will ever need on the street and also a very healthy power figure for the track.

Using these you wont need to worry about defects, you wont need to build a bottom end capable of 9500rpm and you will get much better response than you could ever dream of getting with the 2835's.

Was that on a stroker motor? What a Awsome result... Providing it is not a happy dyno. Wouldn't happen to have that graph by any chance?

The 2835's that i have do sit in the stock position. They are internally gated version.

So? (im confused...)

You don't have the motor to support them... Why use em?

Get something that will suit the setup is what you should be aiming for.

End of the day everyone is saying the same thing and pick turbos suited to the application, but it seems you still want to put 2835s on... So i guess go with that.

When i first brought them i didn't realise they were such a serious option. Defect aside iv wanted to build a car with a big single. Well a decent sized single. Then these came up. So i grabbed them. If i sell them off ill probably look at the t04z option again if there is going to be less hassle chasing good power. I'm just trying to weigh up the odds. Do i sell them off and start putting together a single. Or keep them work with what i have and spend coin in the areas to achieve a decent power from these. Like working on the head fuel system and drive line which ill have to do anyways with either option. That'll most likely be a pig to drive but once its rolling its gonna be scary.

Ill re phrase it. Everything aside. Which turbo set up is going to perform better with minimal head work? And be more streetable. Basically if i gave the keys to my mum and said take it for a strap what would she be best suited to drive

Ill re phrase it. Everything aside. Which turbo set up is going to perform better with minimal head work? And be more streetable. Basically if i gave the keys to my mum and said take it for a strap what would she be best suited to drive

like I said before...neither the T04Z or the 2835s are going to be street friendly on a 2.6 no matter what you do to the head/Cams

Are you going to take the car to the Strip?

If not than get a pair of -9's/GT-SS'

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...