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Hey guys,

I had a look for a thread like this but couldn't really find a whole lot. I'm kind of new to the engine modding world since I used to only own Hondas, but I'm looking for a way to get my car up to 200-220rwkw for as cheap as possible.

At the moment the car has a 3inch dump pipe, 3inch cat back but a standard cat. Turbo Smart plumb back bov and a HKS pod filter.

I'm thinking of getting a front mount soon but want to fit it without cutting any holes so I can return it to stock if I sell it or get defected.

What power mods would you recommend which are good bang for buck? I've done a few handling mods but now it is time for some more power.

Forgot to mention I don't want to go above 12psi for now.

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You would be hard pressed getting that power out of a stock car. You should see closer to 180rwkw with a boost controller, fmic and exhaust. You will run rich and your fuel will vanish. You might even have a car which won't like the extra boost and just spit the dummy. Just keep it stock then down the track strap on a turbo, ecu, injectors, fmic.

200rwkw

std turbo

powerfc

clutch

exhaust

front mount

fuel pump

cold air intake

with a good tune and a good healthy engine 200rwkw is possible

i managed 4.88 0 to 100km and 13.7 @ 105mph with a f**ked diff

You can get Blitz or Just Jap intercoolers that run through the factory holes without cutting anything so look into that.

Your next step really is an aftermarket cumputer and a tune. With 10-12psi and everything else running properly you should see 190-200rwkw.

If it is a manual then make sure it doesn't have a stock clutch as that won't last long.

EDIT: Paul beat me to it :P

Nistune would be your cheapest option. Not sure on exact price since I have never had one but from reading on the forums they are under $1000.

Upgrading the turbo will lead to a lot more money being spent.

but since they cant do anything with the r33 ecu you will have to get a z32 or r32 ecu and do some wiring or internal mods to make them work, z32 would be the best option as it allows you to keep the vct, or for just over a grand (1100-1200) you could find a power fc if you hunt around.

if you only want 220rwkw then get a jusp jap return flow intercooler, i would also get rid of the pod and put the factory air box back on (good for 250rwkw so no need for a pod) which will keep you legal, there is also no need for the aftermarket bov either, the factory one will cope fine!

BUT the first thing to get is a 3" cat, for that power an xforce from justjap will also do fine

The other things you will need around 220rwkw is injectors, fuel pump and a z32 afm.

After all of that go to this HYPERGEAR thread and hook your self up with a highflow, i would personally shoot for around 250rwkw to take advantage of all the money you have spent on the supporting mods.

And since you are new to this stuff let me give you a basic guide to reflect on through out the modding process, read this a while ago and now realise how 100% true it is.

When modding you have 3 options:

1) cheap

2) reliable

3) fast

the catch is you can only pick 2 of the 3 options so choose wisely :thumbsup:

Hey mate ill give u a quick run down.

I started with 3 in turbo back, stock BOV, el cheapo pod filter on a 34 gtt.

I just removed my cat, straight pipe in. illegal... but your choice

11PSI with a torbo technics boost controller, i think they are called. were raved about cause there good and cheap, around $40 off ebay

Cooling pro return flow FMIC from just jap around $550 delivered.

Took me bout 4 hours to install, 22 rwkw gain.

Yesterday i got nistune done...

Safe tune with a safe AFR and on 12 psi.

$300 for the board

$50 to install

$600 to tune

Another 22 rwkw gain.

was really happy with the nistune, really smooth power, from foot to the floor to red line it just keeps pulling in every gear.

End of the day, pulled 207 rwkw.

Next upgrade is a decent clutch..

Hope this gives u some guidance, i have dyno print outs if u want them too

Although its difficult, its wise to look down the track and see where you want to go powerwise so you don't end up doing things twice - but if you are ok with about 220kw then:

You need the 3in highflow cat (or highflow yours )

You need a tunable computer - Z32 ecu with Nistune is cheapest option or PFC, Link, Motec on an escalating scale.

Return flow fmic

Some kind of boost controller - cheap bleed type will do but quality electronic type better

Better turbo - hypergear highflow of yours seems to be best bang for buck atm

Then wind up the boost and tune to get the max out of your stock injectors and afm - should get near enough to 220rwkw.

If your'e going to replace the afm and injectors then you can aim for 240 - 250 or so.

If you keep the stock turbo but do the rest yes you need to keep the boost to 12psi and you could make 200 but if you get a highflowed turbo what would be the point of keeping it at 12psi? You could run 15-16psi or so. Engine life is not determined by the amount of boost but by many variables including the quality of the tune (do not skimp on this part).

Awesome advice from the guys here mate. I have a series 1.5 r33 gtst and have looked at these sorts of posts for a few months now, and the outcome seems very similar in most cases.

Mine has turbo back zorst, pod (getting changed back to stock box), and r34 gtt intercooler. I also bought a turbotech boost controller which has been really good. (running 10psi) Basically the ecu doesnt like it once you start to do these mods and you need to upgrade it. Mine runs just as well on 7-8psi in most cases as it does on 10psi because of the shitty r33ecu flat spots.

I managed to buy an r32 computer which was tuned to run a rb25det that had full zorst and ran 12psi. Got it this week, so hopefully that helps some, but if it doesnt im not phased since it was only $120.

Next step for mine is a fmic, high flow stock turbo and bigger injectors. Which with a tune should easily see 220rwkw.

okay thanks, I'm heading on holidays in a couple weeks but as soon as I get back i'll start searching for a frount mount. I forgot to ask, is it worth getting new coilpacks to deal with this sort of performance? I noticed pretty much everyone has issues with standard ones once they start getting more power.

I wouldnt spend the money on the coils unless you need to- having said that i havent found anyone that hasnt needed to replace them! Mine were f**ked when i bought the car, and it was stock bar a cat back when i bought it, so i dont think its got to do with the power, but rather the coilpacks being heaps of shit from the factory, plus the age of the car. I went splitfires off another sau member in the for sale section, and never looked back.

here i'll make it really easy for you

jjr return flow cooler 500$...

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17355&cat=339&page=1

jjr one piece 3inch bellmouth dump 200$..

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17316&cat=252&page=3

standard hiflow turbo 800$... (+ high pressure WG actuator and braided oil lines maybe 150-200$)

http://www.digi-hardware.com/rb25t3hiflow.html

boost controller 30$ from this guy

http://myworld.ebay.com.au/turbotech-psi/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

you can get your standard ecu retuned to suit for 5-600$ but later on if you wish to retune it is not easy. I've been told Nistune (although great for 32s and 34s) is a pain for r33s and it is easier and more beneficial to get a pfc for about 800-100 secondhand plus 600$ or so for tuning your looking at about 1500$, but in the long run it is the best option..

all up for about 3000$ this will easily and safely get you 210-220kw on moderate boost levels(14-15psi) if everything else is in good order. The only way you will get any cheaper is buying second hand parts.

Everything will look standard under the bonnet and your stock cat/injectors/coilpacks/afm should all be fine for this power level.

If you want to crank the boost up to 20psi you might get 240kw but it wont like it and at very least you will need a FPR.

EDIT...get yourself a walbro or bosch fuel pump as well

I wouldnt spend the money on the coils unless you need to- having said that i havent found anyone that hasnt needed to replace them! Mine were f**ked when i bought the car, and it was stock bar a cat back when i bought it, so i dont think its got to do with the power, but rather the coilpacks being heaps of shit from the factory, plus the age of the car. I went splitfires off another sau member in the for sale section, and never looked back.

the factory coil packs are pretty much the best you can get, the problem is there age, as for replacing them, if it aint broke dont fix it, as long as there in good condition the power your aiming for wont hurt em.

the factory coil packs are pretty much the best you can get, the problem is there age, as for replacing them, if it aint broke dont fix it, as long as there in good condition the power your aiming for wont hurt em.

Yeah- suspected as much. Thought it was probably more to do with age then power considering mine shit themselves at stock level. Also when they shit themselves its dead obvious- mine had big flat spots at 3000rpm and 4500rpm.. not the kinda thing you miss haha

Yeah- suspected as much. Thought it was probably more to do with age then power considering mine shit themselves at stock level. Also when they shit themselves its dead obvious- mine had big flat spots at 3000rpm and 4500rpm.. not the kinda thing you miss haha

Edit- I did however assume the factory items were shit, that being said, im new to having a skyline and should have put two and two together about the age of the car being the problem.

Thats what i love about these RB's ....... So easy to make power

ECU - nistune or pfc

Stock Turbo

3inch Exhaust all the way

Turbo Tech Boost T

And your blitz return flow cooler

and your laughing!

Edited by geraus

Thats what i love about these RB's ....... So easy to make power

ECU - nistune or pfc

Stock Turbo

3inch Exhaust all the way

Turbo Tech Boost T

And your blitz return flow cooler

and a 50 shot of nitrous

and your laughing!

Fixed :P

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