Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I am contenplating buying the RB20 2.2 stroker engine from Lewis Engines at the end of the year instead of freshining up my rb20 as planned.

Before I get the usual oh just buy a 25, I really cbf doing that and since a 25 would be unknown condition plus i would have to change turbo's etc its not worth it when I can have a fully built motor with only .25 cc difference, not to mention technially its still a rb20 so its 'legal'.

I just wanna get some opinions, mainly is it worth doing, compared to spending less then half the $$$ and just doing a freshen up on bearings and stuff. Another option is there race ported head which is 1.1k. I have no problems with my current motor except noisy lifters on startup which isnt a big deal to pull them apart and clean, so with new bearings and a clean it should last another 100,000km easy.

I'm currently running 219rwkw with a std rb20, just the usual bolt ons and have yet to have it retuned with cam gears, so i would assume 225-230rwkw is achievable with my current setup and a retune.

With the 2.2 I would expect atleast 240rwkw, depends if my current gcg turbo is capable, unsure of exact specs of it. I would also assume the response would be alot better and more low down torque.

Either way I wanna pull the motor out and freshen up the engine bay, so just have to decide what to do engine wise.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366172-lewis-engine-22-stroker-rb20/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

+1

Why not weigh up the pro's and cons of going for each setup?

I.e. RB30DET vs RB25DET vs RB22DET

You'd be surprised- I have a mate with a legally registered R32 with an RB25 which is not engineered. Thats in SA tho...

I would love to go a 30 or 25 but 5k is about as much as i wanna spend. Can do a 25 for that easy but I would have to change to much stuff, theres the gearbox and wiring issues, not to mention driveshaft shortened, new turbo, injectors etc etc, I really cbf as atleast with a 2.2 I can reuse all my current gear, worst case is bigger turbo.

Same with a 25/30, 5k just for the block is pretty expensive, will end up been a 10k setup, not really worth it as once again the gearbox will be an issue.

I like the idea of a 2.2 because of price and its a straight forwared job with the bonus of it then been a 2.2 and a fully rebuilt motor. As you can tell i really cbf with modding mounts and wiring, I'd prefer to keep the lid on the can of worms.

The way I see it the 2.2 is a good compromise, but after seeing alot of wrecker 20's running big power for years it makes me wonder if you really need to spend that much when a $500 engine will prob do, or in my case re use my engine and just do new bearings and a clean.

Ben Would need an 80mm Bore with the RB25 crank to get 2162cc

Using standard Bore (78mm) + 25 crank is 2056cc

custom pistons needed either way to stop the slugs sticking out the top of the bores

80mm bore with 26 crank is 2223cc

im running one... to be honest its up to you about the money, no one can really help you with that but if i wasnt tracking my car i wouldnt spend the coin on an rb22

what I can say is the quality and service is good and i have been hammering mine for 2 years 12 months of over 400hp with a few mishaps like laps with cracked rad etc and its held up ... mine was built loose though and breathes but came with custom catch can drain to custom sump setup

the head gets ported and polished too which i think adds a major benefit compared to standard rb20 as the two resitictions are the small cc and non flowing head

Is there a noticable amount of torque and response compared to a normal 20?

Another option is there race ported head. Could just slap that on and see how she goes, might help with mid-top end power.

Theres no point in looking at other cranks as I might as well just buy the 2.2 motor as it already has that, atleast that motor will have some sort of warranty incase of a failure.

yeah got head flow report thingo somewhere flowed something like 90% of rb25 head or something

torque wise direct comparison i cant tell you because i changed the turbo at the same time i put this engine in but with similar setup on rb20 on dyno graph you could see the difference, basically it will be smack bang in the middle of rb20 vs rb25 with same setup by the looks

other than forged pistons / rings 25 crank and 26 rods off top of my head .. get the head work... new HD springs, metal head gasket, adj cams gears, crank collar, restrictors in head and head drain from rear and i got custom sump takes extra 1+ litre with drain back etc

yes..its still is an rb20 with a bit extra but it just suited me at the time for my situation and was a brand new engine

just be honest with your goals in the future and see if this engine will match them and that will go along way to answering your question i think...

Edited by bcozican

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category9_1.htm

Prob should have added the link.

It comes with ported head, rb26 rods. Pretty much a bolt in option which is why i like the idea so much.

Only other option is if i got just the head and put it on the 2.0 block. Even then the whole motor package is good value as it might cost around 2.5-3k to get the std motor done with ported head, std bearings and balance etc. So an extra 2k is pretty good for forgies and stroked to 2.2.

That engine just comes as a box full of parts. still needs assembling/balancing etc.

I would also be weary of how thin the liners get on the 2.2/2.4L RB20

mine came build balanced and blueprinted straight drop in *shrugs*

but just had a look and you get custom cams now where i put in my HKS ones so maybe same same valueish ?

Edited by bcozican

The idea of a 500 wrecker motor i read above, best solution.

2.2 is a lot of money considering what you get if you are after a rebuild etc. Look at the TD06 / RB20 guys making a nice 250-260 on stock motors, would be the economic choice as the 20, even 2.2... won't have 'that' much more down low etc.

As stated also the major issue is the head when it flows around 30% less than a 25 head from most info posted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...