Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ahh so basically I just fill up today and realize that my 34 has used around over 19L/100KM, the thirsty bastard! It pretty much always used to go 15-16L/100KM everytime and these last two weeks of driving 200KMs, it drinks more - my driving style hasnt changed - I do the occasional 15 second short burst of limiter bashing madness daily when I can, the rest of the driving is normal and relaxed, but spirited when the road is clear...eeeh

Now the issue is I have changed my fuel pump a couple or so months ago and since then I have a small leak in my boot - I have a new fuel tank seal sitting around, just cant be arsed fitting it - its a pain opening that goddamn knurled plastic cap on the fuel tank. I know theres a leak because I can smell fuel in the cabin esp when it is a fuel tank, not empty. But not always, sometimes theres no smell of fuel even though I know I have a lot of gas in the tank.

So the question - can my tank leak THAT much fuel to make my economy go from 15 to 19L/100KM????? If yes, then time to change that seal! :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366265-how-much-fuel-can-leak-in-2-weeks/
Share on other sites

I tuned it after the fuel pump rewire and fuel pump install,

i think its down to your driving lol, ive seen the way you drive Ron haha.

Nistune updated there software and i lost your tune from my laptop but im pretty sure your 02 sensor is on. i might have to have a look next time we meet up.

do the fuel pump seal then recheck :)

Yep will do the seal and keep track of my fuel use, btw if the tune was thrown out it wud act a bit differently but it dosent, also jez, before the tune i used to have that 'weld me to the seat' torque between 5500-7000rpm, after tuning i seem to have lost that top end but gained smoothness and better low n mid range power/ torque.. Why is that? Miss that top end now, i didnt say anything then as i thought thats the way it should be or im probably imagining, but now i know for sure that i have lost the top end unfortunately; i take it to the limiter now n then to convince myself that i havent really lost it and hence it drinks more fuel! Ha ha need to assure myself that its still there wheres it gone lol

Fix it or the fumes may kill you or if the level of fumes mixes with the air in the right amount your car will explode if a spark is introduced.

Don't be lazy when it comes to safety.

Its only been road tuned and i have backed some timing out. I really dont like adding timing on the road. We can run it on the dyno an push harder if u want or wait till u get ur bigger turbo. Up to u matey.

Mine leaked. No more than 200ml fuel for the same reason, busted seal after pump install. Wouldn't really affect fuel economy but I don't know how comfortable you are with a petrol leak... Gasket cost 15 from nissan but 3 weeks to get to me so I ensured never fill a full tank until I fixed it.

It's a pretty golden rule of cars, any car, that you dont want fuel ANYWHERE other than where you specifically want fuel.. if you dont feel comfortable changing it, get a shop to do it... you just don't want fuel exploding in any incorrect area, nor do you want fumes messing with your head while driving, its a core safety thing that is well worth the uh, 40 minutes it'd take to get it sorted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...