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Whoa! So what are you saying? Should one buy new/higher strength bolts or what?

Nah, they are plenty strong enough.

The problem is that I have a knack for snapping bolts... that and the fact that the driver's side cam cover is down so that it basically sits flush (from factory) whereas when I was doing up the passenger side one, I figured it should end up sitting flush as well.

Didn't think that they may be two different seals, thus I kept tightening :domokun:

Success!

Finally replaced the seal. Easy enough when you have the right uni joints. Hopefully the rear is seated in the groove properly but looks like it. And no left over bolts too - always good.

I did notice cyl 6's spark plug well had lots of oil in it. Is this an issue? I just need to syringe it out and change the plugs as I did in my 300. That and apart from being a bit stiff, the old cam cover seal had no obvious point of leakage..

Turbo, modified actuator and 3" dump should be arriving soon then it's hopefully back on the road after a quick service!

Sean

Lol plenum already back on. Could do it with it on though I erection.

Plug code?

I always get an erection when I work on my car too. :blush:

LOL.

KH22

LFR6AP

LFR6AIX-11

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/307303-m35-spark-plugs/page__p__5576769__hl__m35+plugs__fromsearch__1#entry5576769

The leak is the seal around the rear plug tube. The seal cant be replaced (New rocker cover is $220us) and would have been the cause of your oil dripping onto the turbo. Syringe the oil out and change the plugs, it will take years to fill the hole again.

DAMNIT!

So I replaced the cam cover seal for nothing?!?!!?

There is only about 5-8mm worth of oil in the well, does it leak down from the top where it seals onto the cam cover?

Ah well at least I know the seal won't fail on me now

Cheers for the spark plug code :)

Oh ok, mine was full to the brim and running down the cam cover dripping onto the turbo. It was also leaking out of the gasket as it was brittle. If its only a small leak dont worry too much, my car ran fine like that for months.

Perhaps you can clean the tube well and squeeze some gasket sealant between the rubber and the metal tube? Don't force it, I put a screwdriver straight through the rubber, and don't get any inside the engine if you can help it.

:cheers:

Ah well,

May still have been the seal, it was quite brittle and stiff but there was no area that screamed "look at me I'm leaking!". It was deifnately leaking from near cyl 6 though as that's where all the buildup was that was dripping onto the turbo.

I just want it to drive again, I'm too impatient when it's my daily that is being worked on :(

Sean

Oh ok, mine was full to the brim and running down the cam cover dripping onto the turbo. It was also leaking out of the gasket as it was brittle. If its only a small leak dont worry too much, my car ran fine like that for months.

Perhaps you can clean the tube well and squeeze some gasket sealant between the rubber and the metal tube? Don't force it, I put a screwdriver straight through the rubber, and don't get any inside the engine if you can help it.

:cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...

So yesterday Jetwreck and I installed the following:

- Custom dump pipe (thanks Scotty)

- Preloaded actuator (thanks again Scotty)

- high flowed Hypergear turbo

- Standard BOV (removed Blitz item)

- New sparkplugs.

- LHS cam cover seal (did a few days ago)

And we have boost! A little over 1 bar. Comes on strong in the midrange, and was a bit laggy, coming on about 3000rpm but I discovered I had a few vacuum leaks so hopefully that'll clear it up. That and the ECU needs to relearn everything again..

The bad news - an oil leak from the oil feed on the turbo... We had to grind the housing down on the oil feed to be able to fit the banjo supplied by Hypergear. That and I suspect the copper washers we used were slightly too big meant we had one mother of a leak. So out it came and it's now on holiday in Sydney with Jetwreck getting machined properly and a new banjo with correct washers fitted.

The good news - from the 5min drive I did have it felt pretty strong, especially in the midrange. Cnsidering it's about $400 cheaper than the precision turbo rebuild I'd consider it a good option. That being said, if I had my time again id firstly pull the engine and go for a precision turbo rebuild, for ease of installation.

Anyway, another week and a half or so and it'll be back on the road

Big thanks to Jetwreck, massive effort so far...

Sean

Coming onto boost at 3000rpm isn't too bad is it?

I think that's when mine kicks in...

I don't mind having a bit of "lag" so I can baby the car in the morning and be able to driving at around 2500rpm

lol im already at about 7-8psi at 2500

I can handle 3000rpm, a bit more town friendly that way too.

Was very slow to rev up even when not under load so I imagine those vac leaks were killing it.

At least we know it works (minus leaks)

what turbo did you go for?

lol your not serious.

running close to 300 without a boost gauge.. it was the first thing i did lol

yeahyeah I know...

well the Profec displays boost in real time...so I'll use that once its hooked up...hopefully this Saturday!

Edited by ironpaw

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