Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

i was reading somewhere altho i cant find it now that the 350Z camber kits could possibly fit the M35 stagea's...............

is there anyway in finding this out via part numbers or whatever ???

http://www.rhdjapan....cpv35-z33-63707

also looking for the rear aswell.

just looking into it before i lower the car to make sure that i can keep similar camber when dumped as to not destroy tyres!!!

Edited by WAGON_BOY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366519-negative-camber-kits-m35/
Share on other sites

Correct me if I'm wrong but how will toe arms fix your camber issue? Wouldn't you need an adjustable rear upper arm?

I have a set of those sitting in the shed to go in with the sway bars. I was told by the guy on ebay when I enquired that it was pretty much a must have for lowered cars, and if the car wasn't lowered, they're thicker and stronger than the OEM items so you'd get better handling.

Since I haven't got them on yet, I can't tell you what they're like, but if you wait a week or two I'll be able to let you know (although going on at the same time as the sway bars I won't be able to give you a definitive answer!).

Correct me if I'm wrong but how will toe arms fix your camber issue? Wouldn't you need an adjustable rear upper arm?

You're actually right, the toe arm will stop you scrubbing the tyres out at really low ride heights; as the suspension compresses; the toe arm straightens. Factory arms often don't have enough adjustment to cope with extreme lowering.

Instead of pointing slightly down, effectively becomes longer as it becomes parallel. This pushes the back edge of the tyre out; increasing toe. This basically forces the tyre to scrub across the road surface at an angle.

Adjustable upper arms are available; as are eccentric bush kits for the upper arms, to push the top of the wheel out; reducing negative camber.

If you could get enough adjustment; I'd be inclined to use eccentric bushes rather than aftermarket arms, as most are fitted with pillowball joints or rod end style joints, these transfer a lot of NVH into the car, whereas urethane bushings are much better at damping vibration. Of course if you can get hold of well made rubber bushed arms; go for it.

Also pillowball style joints can wear quite badly in street driven cars unless very well weather sealed and greased regularly. The ones fitted to the cheaper arms are sometimes of poor quality and wear very quickly.

The other thing to remember is that depending on your ride height; it may not even be necessary to use camber correction equipment.

I'm running hub centre to arch measurements of 360mm front and 350mm rear; not especially low, but low enough, and I have 1deg neg camber all round.

Between 1 to 1.5 deg neg is optimum for a street car anyway.

Edited by Daleo

But if you had an adjustable rear lower arm, you could shorten it a little over the stock one to pull the lower part of the wheel "in", thus removing excessive camber.

Especially useful to minimise camber wear if running wide rear wheels.

Install vid on a G35

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/projects/infiniti_g35_rear_camber_kit_installation.htm

But if you had an adjustable rear lower arm, you could shorten it a little over the stock one to pull the lower part of the wheel "in", thus removing excessive camber.

Especially useful to minimise camber wear if running wide rear wheels.

Install vid on a G35

http://infinitihelp....nstallation.htm

Cheers Cam, that was what I was trying to say; " the toe arm will stop you scrubbing the tyres out at really low ride heights; as the suspension compresses; the toe arm straightens. Factory arms often don't have enough adjustment to cope with extreme lowering."

Might've gotten lost in my blathering...:whistling:

Cheers Cam, that was what I was trying to say; " the toe arm will stop you scrubbing the tyres out at really low ride heights; as the suspension compresses; the toe arm straightens. Factory arms often don't have enough adjustment to cope with extreme lowering."

Might've gotten lost in my blathering...:whistling:

Hahaha, you said it right, but I started reading it and then spaced out for some reason (not a rare occurrence).

Just put it out there in "pleb speak" so I could understand (and to make sure I was right in my thinking :P)

You can use them at stock ride height if you want.

I noticed severe camber wear when I had 18x7.5" Nismo's (Nismo suspension is 20-25mm lower than stock).

Whilst I want to get some wheels, no chance I would do so again before installing a rear camber kit installed.

You can use them at stock ride height if you want.

I noticed severe camber wear when I had 18x7.5" Nismo's (Nismo suspension is 20-25mm lower than stock).

Whilst I want to get some wheels, no chance I would do so again before installing a rear camber kit installed.

It's interesting though, 'cos I'm lower than your Nismo 20-25mm, probably more like 35-40mm, and I have perfectly even wear on my rear tyres. I'm almost on the treadwear limits, and although the tyres were flipped on the rims around 8000km ago, they're spot on.

I've seen the type of wear you're describing; like a huge scallop that extends an 40mm into the tread and normally almost down to the cords. One of my original tyres exhibited this, and I was always worried about it, but it never eventuated.

hmmmmmm

I guess I could lower the car and see?

I'd rather get it all done at once though...

So toe arms are all I need? or get the camber arms as well?

I'd lower it , then speak to your aligner; get them to measure and make a decision.

How low are you going to go? Measure from hub centre to guard; that way wheel/ tyre diameter doesn't add variables. You'll probably find someone is running ride height roughly where you're planning, and you might get a idea that way.

Was looking on the Cusco site for front upper camber control arms for my WGNC34 - they are 323 479A

I couldn't find a listing for the M35. Maybe someone else makes one?

Fairlady 33 (presumably the 350Z) was 251 474 K

Here's the site if you want a look http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/

  • 3 years later...
I recently test fitted my 19x8.5" 25p wheels with a 25mm spacer to try and see how aggressive I could go with my fitment (I bought a pair of 19x10.5" wheels that I'd like to put on the rear but I can see that it's going to be borderline).


2zwr1lax.lw5.png



ydhj0why.dpt.png



Measurement from the center of the hub to the arch is 337mm which is pretty spot on for the look that I am going for. However the suspension is far too slack (BC BR coilovers) in the rear and the tyre scrubs on the arch every time I turn a corner. I called the shop where I bought the coilovers from and they said that they can sell me firmer springs for the rear for NZD $125 which I thought wasn't too bad and my understanding is that a firmer spring rate in the rear would help limit body roll even more.


My question for you guys; are there any aftermarket adjustable arms that I should be looking at to get a small amount of camber in the wheel so that I have at least some hope of fitting the 19x10.5" wheels when they arrive?


I'm pretty noob when it comes to suspension, I just want to maximise handling while still having a semi- flush fitment.

I recently test fitted my 19x8.5" 25p wheels with a 25mm spacer to try and see how aggressive I could go with my fitment (I bought a pair of 19x10.5" wheels that I'd like to put on the rear but I can see that it's going to be borderline).

2zwr1lax.lw5.png

ydhj0why.dpt.png

Measurement from the center of the hub to the arch is 337mm which is pretty spot on for the look that I am going for. However the suspension is far too slack (BC BR coilovers) in the rear and the tyre scrubs on the arch every time I turn a corner. I called the shop where I bought the coilovers from and they said that they can sell me firmer springs for the rear for NZD $125 which I thought wasn't too bad and my understanding is that a firmer spring rate in the rear would help limit body roll even more.

My question for you guys; are there any aftermarket adjustable arms that I should be looking at to get a small amount of camber in the wheel so that I have at least some hope of fitting the 19x10.5" wheels when they arrive?

I'm pretty noob when it comes to suspension, I just want to maximise handling while still having a semi- flush fitment.

Maximizing handling and stretch tyres don't really go hand in hand. Question is do you want handling or hard parking styling?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...