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Four simple questions about boosting a RB25DET from a R33.

1, What is standard boost?

2, What is the maximum boost that the stock turbos can handle? (or what boost level should i keep it under)

3, If I have a pod filter, slightly bigger SMIC and turbo back exhaust with sports catalyser, what boost will it naturally creap up to?

4, Whats the typical bog standard R33 rwKw figure and what might it be with the mods from question 3?

Thanks all

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7

10

without a ebc/valve 8 maybe?????

140/160

I concur.

Do you concur?

The pod filter will be entirely useless and not help power goals at all. It will also greatly increase the "I've got a stock turbo that spools even when I am being overtaken up a hill by a corrola sound"....which is the most ghey aspect of any R33 GTST ownership experience.

If you get a good full exhaust, panel filter, R34 side mount then you will probably make more than 160rwkw, perhaps closer to 170rwkw (if it matters). If you plan on changing the turbo skip the R34 side mount step, and add a Front mount WHEN you install the larger turbo.

Edited by simpletool

OP, off topic, but love your avatar... brings back memories when i went to japan for a holiday ahhh...the food is cheap and awesome there!

I'd chime in, but everyone else has already answered your questions.

7psi

12psi

anyone's guess

140rwkw stock boost

Search IS your friend.

At what stage does it hit R+R or experience knock [without an ecu or bender]???? Don't answer, I don't care, its a rhetoric question.

Four simple questions about boosting a RB25DET from a R33.

1, What is standard boost?

2, What is the maximum boost that the stock turbos can handle? (or what boost level should i keep it under)

3, If I have a pod filter, slightly bigger SMIC and turbo back exhaust with sports catalyser, what boost will it naturally creap up to?

4, Whats the typical bog standard R33 rwKw figure and what might it be with the mods from question 3?

Thanks all

The other guys have answered already, but mine atm has the mods you have listed on 3, and it hits 9psi naturally. Mine bog stock was 145rwkw (huge lol) but not sure what it is with the extra small mods. I have to tell you though that you need to count in getting your ecu remapped or go aftermarket. Mine hates anything from 10psi, and runs with flat spots etc. Im leaving my boost controller off until i get my ecu remapped for that exact reason.

ok thanks helpful people, smart arses, well you know what your good for.

Im spending most of the budget on non-engine modifications which is why im keeping it simple.

BTW, what is R&R? Im guessing it aint rest and relaxation

The pod filter will be entirely useless and not help power goals at all. It will also greatly increase the "I've got a stock turbo that spools even when I am being overtaken up a hill by a corrola sound"....which is the most ghey aspect of any R33 GTST ownership experience.

If you get a good full exhaust, panel filter, R34 side mount then you will probably make more than 160rwkw, perhaps closer to 170rwkw (if it matters). If you plan on changing the turbo skip the R34 side mount step, and add a Front mount WHEN you install the larger turbo.

Nothing wrong with a nice induction sound - it keeps things lively and entertaining.

The stock airbox is wank, it is massive and taken up loads of engine bay space as well as looking like cr@p. I'm all for say an ARC airbox but f**k the OEM offering right off.:thumbsup:

As for running a side-mount with 12 psi on the stock turbo I don't think that is very good advice at all, especially in a hot country.

Only a fool would buy an R34 SMIC especially if they are gonna get a bigger turbo later.

At what stage does it hit R+R or experience knock [without an ecu or bender]???? Don't answer, I don't care, its a rhetoric question.

I went up to 12 psi on the standard ECU and it was pulling timing and the torque curve looked like a crinkle cut crisp side-on.

I had 3" 'zaust, sports cat, FMIC, POD filter.

But also a hard intake pipe and I cut the mesh off the inside of the AFM.

It made 206.5 rear wheel Kw's on a custom tune with dragging rear brakes so was obviously flowing very well with all the intake and 'zaust mods.

R and R is where the ecu sees too much flow from the afm and changes the timing and the fuel mix the keep the engine "hunky dory". Turn the boost up to about 13 or 14 psi and the stock ecu wont like it and will give you a scare . But smartarseness aside I have tried what I said earlier. The turbo didn't break and the car went like a cut snake. But still, don't try it tho...I have run 14 to 15 psi for the last few months and its fine so far. I don't flog it incessantly and don't let it get very hot from extended wot. To be safe stick with what the other guys have said..10 to 12 psi. Don't waste your time upping the boost over 10 psi till you get an aftermarket ecu tho. It will r and r and feel like crap to drive with poor economy :yes: Oh and don't cut the mesh out of your afm...It helps with air turbulence

R and R = Rich and Retard - ecu dumps more fuel in and pulls tiiming severely to protect engine - you'll know all about it - sudden loss of power and yes get a high flow panel filter for your stock air box.

What is the maximum boost that the stock turbos can handle? (or what boost level should i keep it under)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pretty sure I was answering this ^^ question when I said 12psi.

If the question was.....what is the highest boost I can run with stock ecu before R&R? or what is the maximum boost I should run with a SMIC? then somewhere lower would be advisable.

That mesh in the afm is actually there for a reason. I believe its to straighten out airflow before it reaches the resistor wire so it can take an accurate reading. I dont think its really necessary to remove it when it hasnt actually been proven to be a restriction.

Plenty of people have made alot more power with it still intact.

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