Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so is this wire that youre all cuting coming directly from the brake switch?

similar to andy's theory, just hook the park brake line directly up to the ECU brake activation so the park brake activates it instead

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

so is this wire that youre all cuting coming directly from the brake switch?

similar to andy's theory, just hook the park brake line directly up to the ECU brake activation so the park brake activates it instead

This would work fine but harder to implement since you now have to find 2 wires & afaik the handbrake doesn't have a connection to the ECU. Also, the handbrake wire is prob an earth but what is the one we cut? It could well be a feed from the brake lights, ie 12V, so one of it's purposes is to let us know when the brake lights are out, not just kill our launching fun :P .

I think a simple switch to reconnect the circuit is simplest & possibly less problematic in long run. It can be mounted close to ECU (even in glovebox or top cubby near DVD) if you don't want to run wires across to driver's side.

This would work fine but harder to implement since you now have to find 2 wires & afaik the handbrake doesn't have a connection to the ECU. Also, the handbrake wire is prob an earth but what is the one we cut? It could well be a feed from the brake lights, ie 12V, so one of it's purposes is to let us know when the brake lights are out, not just kill our launching fun :P .

I think a simple switch to reconnect the circuit is simplest & possibly less problematic in long run. It can be mounted close to ECU (even in glovebox or top cubby near DVD) if you don't want to run wires across to driver's side.

+1 on that.....I ran the momentary switch down in the slot below the Cig lighter.

did you notice a difference in drivability at all though craig?

assuming mines shown a light i dont think ive noticed any change at all

nup....noticed nothing...nothing at all!....could still do a stall and launch at 20PSI bagging all 4's right through 1st!

yeh i dont think im gonna bother with a switch..

my AFR's seem fine, i havent noticed any drawbacks over the past few weeks ive had it.

i have noticed the car seems to be pulling alot harder, but thats probably coz i just serviced it.

meh...

whats your stall at?EDIT: actually whats everyones stall at? if they were to sit on the brake and accelerator, what to the revs read(before spinning)

whats your stall at?EDIT: actually whats everyones stall at? if they were to sit on the brake and accelerator, what to the revs read(before spinning)

at 3000rpm I cannot hold it any longer.....I have to let it go....that's at 19-20PSI.......if it's in 2WD I need to let it go a lot earlier!

yeh mines at around 2500-2700.. my tires wont spin up at stall even at 10 psi.

if its when or really cold we have another story but that might be the brake bias or the pzeros

Jethro, can you confirm and let me know.. i have a feeling all(some) the stall converters are varied now..

Yep, around 2700-3000rpm, mine is slowly churning both rear tyres and sliding the back end to one side in the lane. LSD FTW!

Let it go; solid chirp and it f**ks the f**k off out of there!:banana:

Yep, around 2700-3000rpm, mine is slowly churning both rear tyres and sliding the back end to one side in the lane. LSD FTW!

Let it go; solid chirp and it f**ks the f**k off out of there!:banana:

do you have four pot fronts?

do you have four pot fronts?

In a box under my workbench? Yes. On the car? Not yet.pinch.gif

Too many projects going on ATM, will have to get back to my Big Brake conversion soon. Do have to stand on them fairly hard too, and no wire snipping yet.

I'd certainly like a bit of Jetwreck's turning all 4 in first though...

Edited by Daleo

Shouldn't make a difference from standstill should it?

yours wont because you have rears..

but the brake bias changes with the four pot fronts(mainly GTR32 conversion)

I think anyway.. im sure cam will come and correct me.

looks like it will make it easier to spin up the rears at stall as you dont have to stand on the brakes as much to hold the front.

Aaron try this.

Stall up in 2WD......when it starts spinning let it go and then flick your attessa back on and it should lock up the fronts launch like a mofo!

I did a couple of back to back tests with a mate the other night on a private road and this was by far the quickest way to launch my car.....sub 5's!

Edited by Jetwreck

dont have a switch yet.. and surely thats not good for the attessa system right??

and as i said, these tyre will JUST start to slip but wont spin at stall, they're still new and really soft and sticky.. sometimes i wish i had nankangs lol..

i reckon i'll get em spinning once i do the brakes, i wont have to stand on em as much

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
    • I _think_ that one has a christmas tree or some other retainer spike into a hole in that panel under it. Come in under it with thin scredrivers and just pry it gently up. If you rip the ears off the retainer pin....so what? Just stick it back down after with a bit of race tape and carry on with life.
×
×
  • Create New...