Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Install In Perth

Clobaby91

By Clobaby91,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Clobaby91 Explorer

Clobaby91

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I have no idea where to go in Perth to get my turbo timer put back in.

i had an immobilizer installed for licencing reasons and the gentlemen who put in the immobilizer disconnected my turbo timer without telling me.

i need it back in asap as its my first turbo car i have no idea where to take it.

Can anyone suggest somewhere that will do a good job and not cost me my whole paycheck?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368597-turbo-install-in-perth/
Share on other sites
jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

any of the major shops

Xspeed, hyperdrive, allstar garage etc.

not sure what they would charge but it cant be too hard.

Why dont you get onto the immobiliser install guy and take it up with him? usually u shouldnt f*k with any other of a cars systems if you are doig a job right so get him to hook it back up again...

itsme Collaborator

itsme

Posted
Posted

Hi Chloe,

Do you know what the turbo timer is? (greddy, apexi etc)

I'd recommend posting those details up here first, depending on how bad it's been disconnected one of the dudes on here may even be able to do it for you. (ie: might just be one wire)

Alternatively call up a few of the workshops and explain you have a '_____ turbo timer that has been disconnected on an R34, how much to install it/fix it then work out based on price and reputation of the workshop where to go.

In the meantime don't worry too much. The manufacturers don't make the cars with turbo timers so it's not necessarily vital, just drive your car easy for the last leg before your destination (ie; dont thrash it to your driveway then switch it straight off) or alternatively just sit with the car on for a minute before switching off =)

-Steve

Dingus Proficient

Dingus

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah, my first turbo car (180) had one when I got it, but haven't bothered with one in any other cars since. Just drive nicely and off boost for the last couple of minutes before you stop, and then you should be safe. I got into the habit of doing that when I was living at home with the olds, had a really loud exhaust on my 33 and went out cruising late-night, didn't want to annoy the neighbourhood by leaving it idling away in the middle of the night.

If you really want it though, any decent auto electrician shouldn't have any problems doing it.

Edited by Dingus
Clobaby91 Explorer

Clobaby91

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Chloe,

Do you know what the turbo timer is? (greddy, apexi etc)

I'd recommend posting those details up here first, depending on how bad it's been disconnected one of the dudes on here may even be able to do it for you. (ie: might just be one wire)

Alternatively call up a few of the workshops and explain you have a '_____ turbo timer that has been disconnected on an R34, how much to install it/fix it then work out based on price and reputation of the workshop where to go.

In the meantime don't worry too much. The manufacturers don't make the cars with turbo timers so it's not necessarily vital, just drive your car easy for the last leg before your destination (ie; dont thrash it to your driveway then switch it straight off) or alternatively just sit with the car on for a minute before switching off =)

-Steve

Hi Steve,

I will have to look when i get into my car after work, its still in the back of my car.

it was completely cut out, all the wires were cut and they didnt tell me, i notcied it on my back seat when i was half way home so went back and they said they wouldnt be able to install it because 'its legal to have turbo timers' i thought that was bs i have seen a lot of my friends with turbo timers

Thanks for the advice tho

Chloe

NISMOGTT Collaborator

NISMOGTT

Posted
Posted

you can have one legally if it is part of the alarm/emobiliser.... so that if someone tries to get in then the engine will shut off...

i have passed the pits with mine on and he simply asked me to shut the engine down.... same as the police whenever i get pulled over...

Clobaby91 Explorer

Clobaby91

Posted
  • Author
Posted

dont waste your $$$ going to a workshop.any good auto electrician can fit/refit a turbo timer

Hi StevenCJR31

I dont know any auto electricians, hence why i asked on here about it. If you can suggest any that may be interested in helping me out, would be much appreciated. : )

Chloe

autoworx Rising Star

autoworx

Posted
Posted

you can have one legally if it is part of the alarm/emobiliser.... so that if someone tries to get in then the engine will shut off...

i have passed the pits with mine on and he simply asked me to shut the engine down.... same as the police whenever i get pulled over...

They are not legal if they are built in to the alarm or immobilizer , they are tolerated though and generally the pits and police are OK with them.

ADR 25-Turbo timers are not to be fitted to vehicles manufactured on or after 1 January 1972 (ADR 25 Anti-

Theft Locks). ADR 25 requires that the normal function of the engine only occurs when the ignition

lock is in the engine on position.

You may find it difficult to find a reputable person to fit the turbo timer with the immobiliser , not because of the ADR issues but because a relay bypass must be wired into the alarm to disable it while the turbo timer is operational , leaving the car unsecured and the installer liable.

here is a nice thread , read the comments by the alarm installers in it and the stuff on bypassing security

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/356357-turbo-timer-vs-alarm/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...