Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Detailing

skysilv

By skysilv,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

block all the intake piping with glad wrap or some form of plastic film, remove the airflow meter and dont get the coilpacks wet

dont spray water all over the shop in the engine bay, there is no need

use a degreaser and just wipe it quickly

ie dont goto your car wash and bomb the engine bay with a pressure gun

thats a no no

degreaser and some wipes is all you need

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

you can HP the engine bay, taking the above precautions but i must admit... i'm not a big fan.

go to bunnings, get a product called 'Simple Green' - put it in a little pump-pack type spray bottle (check the dilution notes) and just mist around the engine bay and wipe down.

Otherwise i would do the same with Final Inspection's GPC (General Purpose Cleaner)

Different materials (plastics/metal/rubber) may require different products as well, but the above mentioned ones would be fine to start with for a general clean

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

block all the intake piping with glad wrap or some form of plastic film, remove the airflow meter and dont get the coilpacks wet

dont spray water all over the shop in the engine bay, there is no need

use a degreaser and just wipe it quickly

ie dont goto your car wash and bomb the engine bay with a pressure gun

thats a no no

degreaser and some wipes is all you need

I saw someone at a self serve carwash take a high pressure hose onto his ford falcon engine bay. After he was satisfied with the hose down, he went to start the car which stalled 3-4 times before it limped away >_<

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I've used a high pressure host before a few times, never had a problem.

Just don't spray @ ignitor/coil packs, and the airbox/pod/AFM area. Spray something to "presoak" like some warm soapy water, then have at it. Basically you want to 'shoot' like if using a gun/pistol - spraying the water downwards so it doesn't spray/fly everywhere.

As others have said - do NOT just go gung-ho and spray anything and everything. Just take your time and it can be done

Don't use the car was pressure hoses though, the water there is generally dirty. I've always done it with a Karcher @ home or similar and taken my time.

Once you've done that and gotten the bulk off, then just use a 'mit' or something with soapy water to get in and around everything and remove built up grime.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

yeah pressure washing is fine, do this first.

But for real results you have to get in there with a few cans of degreaser and a rag and scrub at the build up..then pressure wash again, just dont hold the gun to close.. soak it with truck wash or degreaser first and it will be fine

dont expect instant results..do it once, twice three times and then it will start to look great ;)

NISSAN GTR Veteran

NISSAN GTR

Posted
Posted

i didnt wash my engine bay at all , i decided to keep water away from electrics !!!!!!!!!

the other option is to remove engine parts seperately yes.gifand hand polish with soapy water and use metal polish for stubborn parts ,

its a long process , if you wanna get serious ??????

skysilv Contributor

skysilv

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@ nissan gtr yes i am thinking of doing that coz after washing my engine bay it doesnt look any difference. i jus wanted some advice regarding pulling out the parts. like what should i do after undoing the rocker cover do i need to cover the engine with some sort of things to prevent dust etc help me i have no clue

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

of course you should cover it..just an old clean shirt or something will do

did you soak your engine in degreaser before you washed it..?

just get a few of those 2$ cans from supercheap and totally soak it especially the greasy bits then drive to the car wash and hose it..you may need to do it a few times though for good results..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Duncan
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...