Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm in SA and if i could find a 20 for 500 bucks i'll take 6 the cheapest i've ever seen is 1100 and it didn't include turbo or the intake manifold and a few other bits

ive picked up a few 20's, the last one was complete with manifolds for $100.

edit/ im in SA also

Edited by Bl4cK32
  • Replies 209
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I get what Team USA is saying about head work, I think what is being lost in translation between convicts and pilgrims is that R31_Nismoid is sayign dont do things to mess with velocity, ie big porting or the inlet and outlet, etc etc. You are right in saying that anything you can do to lessen the resistance of air without dropping velocity is going to be a good thing. Match porting etc etc.

But the key is not just flow, flow is great, more the better, but its the velocity that gives you good culinder filling and torque/response which in a turbo car works well. Get the turbo on speed and the engien delivering torque and then jsut squeeze as much as you can in there with psi!

Ye that is what I'm saying mr Bris :)

since you guys talked me out of forging, i'm wondering bout stroking cause i have mate that's got a 25 crank and rods i can use this should stroke it to 2150cc with 20 pistons shouldn't it?? but correct me if i'm wrong cause i'm only going off what people have said and what i've looked up so not completely sure if i heard or read right but doesn't the stock pistons come up 0.4mm past the block and with 25 crank and rods it will push it to 1.4mm past but if i put a tomei or acl 1.4mm metal gasket won't this give me the right clearance with roughly same compression just with bigger cc's??

has anyone done this? is it pretty straight forward easy drop in kind of deal? do i need to modify anything? only spitballing

yeah well i was gonna pull the head off to replace the rings so i was gonna put a metal gasket on anyway so the only thing i was gonna change was put 25 crank and rods while it's apart putting all the new bearings and seals cause there available so i'm not set on wasting my money it's not gonna cost me anymore than if i wasn't...i was just wondering on how easy it is and if i need to modify anything to fit the crank and rods in

From what I have research just the rb25 crank, rods, and stock sized rb20 pistons will only net you a 2050cc engine. You have to use over sized pistons to really up the ccs. Remember the rb25 stroke is only 2mm longer then the rb20, just adding 2mm will not get you much. If your going to do it, you should just go all out and do the rb24. I have to say though, if I was in a place that had rb25 for what rb20s cost here I would have a rb25 in mine........ Good luck.

  • 2 weeks later...

yeah just for the two bobs worth no machining required for 25 crank and rods only for the 26 crank and rods...and just side point one guy is running RB24 in s15 and is making 340rwkw at 16 pound apparently it's suppose to have a crap load more torque than the RB25 don't know the details of what he's running but supposedly it's not to laggy but people who have been in it have just said it's a freak motor that just runs really well

I can't see any reason why this would be true, the stroke is still shorter surely?

i thought the rb24 has a longer stroke than 25 from what i've found and talking to people only going by what i've been told and searched so not sure how true it is may have read wrong...people just say it's a freak motor and it seems that most people say it's got more torque so who knows??? would love to take ride in one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...