Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree. I love the black leather & electric seats, but the switch gears digs into my thigh a bit on longer trips.

There is a Nissan service bulletin that covers a (potential) fix for this - I posted them on m35.info forum - but I've still not bothered to try it.

  • 4 years later...

Bit of an old thread, but does anyone still do the English conversion for the stereo ? Have just imported an 04 ARX, replaced the suspension with mca x-r's and bushes are up next before it goes for a blue slip.. But the stereo is the next priority after that.. I'm in Sydney if that is relevant.

Many thanks in advance

Ps has anyone been able to get the maps working for Australia ? Not overly important, but curious all the same

I've never seen that second pocket! Mine has a weird Panasonic DVD drive in there for the GPS system.. that'll get ripped out eventually :P

I got it from yahoo auctions in Japan. Yours may have had the screen from factory as mine had the dvd rom in that area.

Problems

 

Turbo Failure:

If the oil lines get blocked, yes your turbo will fail. Clean or replace your lines and your good to go. Drilling your banjo's to 3mm will just cause excessive flow  and encourage oil to leak out the turbine oil ring causing smoke.

The main failure is the ceramic turbine breaking off the turbine shaft. Oil flow is not related to this. The cause is directly related to turbine speed. If you want the OEM turbo charger to last, don't put a dump pipe or exhaust on it, Don't increase boost otherwise it will fail eventually.

 

Rear Shocks:

Upper Mounts will rip out of the car when performance shocks are installed or even with OEM. The top hats rust out due to the stupid design

 

Rust:

They like to rust in the lower kick panel, window frames, gearbox mount point.

 

Air Flow Meters:

The OEM Airflow meters blow continuously. Best by a AFM off ScottyM35 as these are the only ones Ive seen last.. better than getting stuck..buy one straight up

 

Interior:

The interior is just ugly, it squeaks and creaks  

 

Engine:

The engine is capable of serious power and great response. Be warned the head studs are cheese and will leak/lift with almost any detonation. The OEM injectors run out of flow easily so be wary of an M35 Series 1 with an exhaust but no other supporting fueling mods, it will most likely already have a broken piston. Every M35 series one I have compression tested have had at least one piston broken(greater than 10% compression variance). Rocker cover Gaskets go hard and leak. Electronic throttle isn't the most reliable. The coil packs don't like Adelaide 48 degree heat.  

 

Transmission:

This will start slipping on mid throttle changes on the OEM setup when boost is increased and destroy itself. Can only be patched with a shift kit

 

Brakes:

The brakes are hugely undersized and will wrap and crack with any spirited driving.

 

Electric Windows:

The drivers window motor will eventually strip the inner cog. OEM window motors are expensive.

 

Rear Sub Frame:

They can crack at the top of the inverted U. You can't tow

 

Electrical:

The Battery Control Modules are almost all been water damaged at some stage due to blocked drain holes. The rams in the front seats are prone to setting off intermittent Air bag faults. Centre pop up screen is useless, even when converted to English   

 

Stereo:

The original Bose system sounds good, changing it requires a bandwidth adaptor(PAC-OEM2). People charge insane amounts for a Double din fascia.

 

 

Summary:

Buy the series 2, 2wd version with the 3.5ltr if you don't plan on modding the series 1 turbo. If you are looking at going down the turbo path, don't modify it unless you are (a) very patient and capable of your own work or (b) are willing to spend big money with a workshop who actually knows these cars. Buy the car will all the options that you want already...ie AXIS, leather, sunroofs, radar cruise etc. Don't by a turbo version without completing a compression test.

 

 

Matt

 

Edited by BoostdR
8 hours ago, BoostdR said:

Problems

 

Turbo Failure:

If the oil lines get blocked, yes your turbo will fail. Clean or replace your lines and your good to go. Drilling your banjo's to 3mm will just cause excessive flow  and encourage oil to leak out the turbine oil ring causing smoke.

The main failure is the ceramic turbine breaking off the turbine shaft. Oil flow is not related to this. The cause is directly related to turbine speed. If you want the OEM turbo charger to last, don't put a dump pipe or exhaust on it, Don't increase boost otherwise it will fail eventually.

 

Rear Shocks:

Upper Mounts will rip out of the car when performance shocks are installed or even with OEM. The top hats rust out due to the stupid design

 

Rust:

They like to rust in the lower kick panel, window frames, gearbox mount point.

 

Air Flow Meters:

The OEM Airflow meters blow continuously. Best by a AFM off ScottyM35 as these are the only ones Ive seen last.. better than getting stuck..buy one straight up

 

Interior:

The interior is just ugly, it squeaks and creaks  

 

Engine:

The engine is capable of serious power and great response. Be warned the head studs are cheese and will leak/lift with almost any detonation. The OEM injectors run out of flow easily so be wary of an M35 Series 1 with an exhaust but no other supporting fueling mods, it will most likely already have a broken piston. Every M35 series one I have compression tested have had at least one piston broken(greater than 10% compression variance). Rocker cover Gaskets go hard and leak. Electronic throttle isn't the most reliable. The coil packs don't like Adelaide 48 degree heat.  

 

Transmission:

This will start slipping on mid throttle changes on the OEM setup when boost is increased and destroy itself. Can only be patched with a shift kit

 

Brakes:

The brakes are hugely undersized and will wrap and crack with any spirited driving.

 

Electric Windows:

The drivers window motor will eventually strip the inner cog. OEM window motors are expensive.

 

Rear Sub Frame:

They can crack at the top of the inverted U. You can't tow

 

Electrical:

The Battery Control Modules are almost all been water damaged at some stage due to blocked drain holes. The rams in the front seats are prone to setting off intermittent Air bag faults. Centre pop up screen is useless, even when converted to English   

 

Stereo:

The original Bose system sounds good, changing it requires a bandwidth adaptor(PAC-OEM2). People charge insane amounts for a Double din fascia.

 

 

Summary:

Buy the series 2, 2wd version with the 3.5ltr if you don't plan on modding the series 1 turbo. If you are looking at going down the turbo path, don't modify it unless you are (a) very patient and capable of your own work or (b) are willing to spend big money with a workshop who actually knows these cars. Buy the car will all the options that you want already...ie AXIS, leather, sunroofs, radar cruise etc. Don't by a turbo version without completing a compression test.

 

 

Matt

 

Reading you post Matt and i don't want a stagea anymore :).

In other news;

No other car ever built in the history of motoring has ever had any kind of reliability issue.

So probably just go & buy one of those.

Maybe a Jeep; they seem quite good.

  • Like 2

Stock is fine, especially for what I have found so far in these cars... Compared to an "Aussie" made equivalent it's a stark difference in what is considered stock.. And largely where it's tempting to have fun and go all out, I am personally trying to keep it "stock"....

Where OEM parts are available, I would largely go for them, but at the same time, if it's cheaper to put something potentially better on, I know what I would rather do...

On 7/4/2016 at 10:32 AM, West said:

Reading you post Matt and i don't want a stagea anymore :).

So get a PM35.

No turbo to worry about

Different AFM (seems much more reliable)

Nicer interior

Common engine

Updated transmission

 

Really, the only downside to the 3.5L is that there is no turbo.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...