Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is there much of a difference in Coil packs?

For a non turbo GTS 1996 skyline for daily driving?Done about 185,000km so far.

I have one starting to fail which will be replaced .

Although the others seem ok is it reasonable to replace them all.Do they wear out?

getting the mechanic to do this several times isn't cost effective but I don't know how long I can expect these to last under normal conditions.

If I could do this myself, rather than pay the mechanic, I would only replace the faulty one.

IMO you may as well replace them all. Then it is something that you don't have to worry about for a number of years....

EDIT: as the coil packs are all well aged it is now just a waiting game until the others go.

Edited by Shazza24

Like the others have said swap em out mate. Once one has gone, its probably only a matter of time (and short one at that)

I replaced one of mine and it ran well for around 2500km, then another failed. I immediately just wished i had forked out for the new ones.

You have to realize that all the coil-packs were manufactured the same, and now have done the same number of km's under the same conditions, and are all equally as worn out as each other, as one has failed, you can guarantee that the rest are on their way out. Replace the lot, and fit god plugs while you're there. Otherwise, it'll end up costing you more to have them replaced one by one, and fuel economy etc.

Mines run about 93,000 kms and one has now failed, on my car at least, the coilpacks are rather hard to access (thats what my mechanic told me) and if one fails, and you fix it, and another fails, then the labour costs will be alot just to replace one again so its a much safer idea just to replace em all :)

Mines run about 93,000 kms and one has now failed, on my car at least, the coilpacks are rather hard to access (thats what my mechanic told me) and if one fails, and you fix it, and another fails, then the labour costs will be alot just to replace one again so its a much safer idea just to replace em all :)

Thats gotta suck for plug changes etc too! Must be an r34 thing, the 33 (series 2) is a ridiculously easy job.

it's really not that hard to get to your coilpacks on an r34. just sounds like a good excuse for your mechanic to butter you up for an expensive bill

i just bought my r34 and have been pretty disappointed so far with things i've found so far on a car that was owned by a guy that had it straight to a mechanic for any little thing, not to mention basic oil and plug changes.

protip: learn how to do basic things yourself

it's really not that hard to get to your coilpacks on an r34. just sounds like a good excuse for your mechanic to butter you up for an expensive bill

i just bought my r34 and have been pretty disappointed so far with things i've found so far on a car that was owned by a guy that had it straight to a mechanic for any little thing, not to mention basic oil and plug changes.

protip: learn how to do basic things yourself

it's really not that hard to get to your coilpacks on an r34. just sounds like a good excuse for your mechanic to butter you up for an expensive bill

i just bought my r34 and have been pretty disappointed so far with things i've found so far on a car that was owned by a guy that had it straight to a mechanic for any little thing, not to mention basic oil and plug changes.

protip: learn how to do basic things yourself

i've heard that the sparkies and coilpacks are a bit difficult to get to on the 34s, the guy pointed it out to me and it appeared like it was under a fair bit of engine or something? Two different mechanics have both told me its a bit of a difficult job, thats why they

Im being charged about $130 bucks for the labour to get to the coilpacks ... might even just change the sparkies now cos its almost due for its 100k service so we dont have to pay for the labour to get there twice?

I really dont know much about mechanics - im trying to learn some stufff - thats why i got the sexcel :)

a few minor problems with the sexcel, gonna fix it up then move onto something else and hopefully should have a good idea and be a bit more confident to do stuff myself

hope to one day buy a blown engine and try and fix it up or something :)

get a service manual some reusable sandwitch bags an masking tape to label the bags of where to bolts belong and even go to take some photos during pulling everything of a reference. coil-packs arent too difficult, try replacing all the welsh plugs with the engine still in the car. if your after a temp fix wrap the coil-packs with good electrical tape.

its not hard doing it yourself. if you've got a bit of common sense then you'll be fine.

Re: coil packs. if you get lucky and have the coil packs with the copper inside then you can usually get away with cleaning up the surface LIGHTLY with a dremil. this worked really well for ages till i got a set of splitfires. they tend to accumulate a fair bit of crap over time.

Thanks for the replies.

I will now replace all the coil packs

for a ,R33 GTS non turbo 1996 skyline 4 door ( 180,000km )

I just drive this as the family car.

Now , which coil pack is the most reliable and what sort of cost am I looking at per coil?

If I don't go genuine replacement or should I

Thanks for the replies.

I will now replace all the coil packs

for a ,R33 GTS non turbo 1996 skyline 4 door ( 180,000km )

I just drive this as the family car.

Now , which coil pack is the most reliable and what sort of cost am I looking at per coil?

If I don't go genuine replacement or should I

well for mine genuine is MUCH cheaper, 220 bucks for the parts, 120 bucks for installation.

for an aftermarket set you're looking around the 500 - 600 bucks for the coils ...

i dont see the point paying 400 bucks more for the aftermarkets especially since yours is a family car

coil packs WILL fail if you have an R34, R33 and R32 are a different story

it's actually quite easy to get to the coilpacks and change them yourself, just takes about 4 hours if it's your first time, you'll need a socket wrench, allen keys and pliers.

DON'T make the same mistake I did and change 1 coilpack and 1000kms later, another one failed costing me an unnecessay 350dollars extra! Replace the spark plugs while you're at it too and DON'T cheap out

When the mechanic did it he put in 6 copper spark plugs and a 2nd hand coilpack

When I did it, I put in 6 new iridium spark plugs and 6 new yellow jacket coil packs, not a problem ever since!

DON'T CHEAP OUT!

EDIT: yellow jacket coilpacks are 420 dollars inc delivery (they are almost identical in performance / durability compared to spitfires)

is it worth it to buy aftermarket ones vs the stockers?

ill definitely pick up some iridium or platinum sparkies and get them fitted at the same time as the coilpacks ... id feel bad canceling now since he's already ordered the coilpacks for me and stuff. the cars almost due for its 100k service anyway so i really may as well!

is it worth it to buy aftermarket ones vs the stockers?

ill definitely pick up some iridium or platinum sparkies and get them fitted at the same time as the coilpacks ... id feel bad canceling now since he's already ordered the coilpacks for me and stuff. the cars almost due for its 100k service anyway so i really may as well!

$590 for 6spitfire coilpacks and $1272 for originals from Nissan

Bought the spitfires and seem to have noticeably more acceleration now.

Can I expect my fuel economy to stay the same if I don't change my driving habits?

Edited by samuri

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...