Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ you missed a few spots with the colour history brush tool. People still do that sort of stuff?

What made you do that to this picture? Just curious.

To me its cheesy and makes the image look worse. My 2 cents. Sorry dont mean to sound harsh.

Otherwise even lighting on the car.

  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey guys, I'm building some stuff for my video rig and though I'd share this one since it will also work for any SLR zoom lens.

I wanted a more controllable way to zoom when I have my camera in video mode.

I got this downspout clamp from Bunnings for $5. I just cut the tabs and drilled a hole to put the clamping screw through (a nice long one from one of my extra follow focus gears).

It really turned out well and the zoom is so much more fluid and smooth since I can control it better.

Just thought I'd share.

hey nice! i was thinking about something like this for doing 'zoom burst' photos.

where did you get that threaded bolt type thing (do they have a specific name, lol)

finding stuff like that is half the battle when it comes to making cool stuff like this

I love your ghetto mods pezman. they're rad. we should make a new site called ghetto-mods.com! :P

I had a crack at some studio styled shots the other day, just did a few quick adjustments here... what do u think? I've spotted a couple flaws on most them already but feedback is gold.

5973378765_911a52fd62_z.jpg

5973939748_a14008c034_z.jpg

5973379321_d52deec40d_z.jpg

5973939378_394b833bbc_z.jpg

5973380679_4803b287b3_z.jpg

Haha yeah. Such a good colour. Blue just pops so much easier.

BTW - Those Fiat 500 shots, did you paint the shadows in? First shadow looks a lot "real-er" than the rear shot. Or maybe it's the low angle and shape of the car, looks like a pyramid haha.

Such a rad car. I want one!!

The screw was from another accessory I have for my camera - some big follow focus gears. But I figure if you used some threaded rod you can just lock a couple of washers on one end between two nuts to make a thumb screw and then you just need some round or triangle pieces to drill and tap. Really Easy.

Had an hour or so to play with my new lens and wanted to see what it can do for night photography (Panasonic 20mm 1.7 Prime). These are really just a trial run to make sure I can get decent capture of stars. I want to do some star gazing time lapse with an intervalometer. I'm pretty pleased with the results straight out of the camera.

P1010616.JPG

P1010633.JPG

P1010635.JPG

P1010649.JPG

Kory, love the S15 shot! I agree, that blue looks amazing on them. When I was deciding on a car almost 6 yrs ago, it was either going to be a blue S15 or the LOLvo.

Matt, that little 500 looks odd from that angle.

Thanks Nick :)

Rainbow beach looks epic!!!

alan_key - Do you live on the beaches? And have you been looking at The-Lowdown lately ;) Turned out good! Maybe use another flash on camera right for some more fill and to kill the shadows?

Another from Bree's Shoot.

5977813219_11c9abcf71_b.jpg

That rainbow beach shot is awesome. really, really well done.

Did you cut and paste the stagea over a 370z? hehehe, nice shot there man. clean looking stag too!

Turned out quite nicely Kory... Story... Allegory... Montesory.... Bory.... Floory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...