Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Just came back from panel shop to give ok to paint the trunk

Pics are dry fit only, the latch still needs to be screwed on to pull it down, but so far very impressed with the fitment and panel gaps

Believe im the first in Aus with this trunk......woot woot

Trunk makes the car look alot cleaner imo

And for those that will cry "aero", i dont track, i just get stuck in traffic.......with the occasional mountain blast

photo2.jpg

photo1.jpg

photo5.jpg

photo4.jpg

photo3.jpg

Edited by domino_z
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370042-carbon-trunk-dry-fit/
Share on other sites

Hi guys

Just came back from panel shop to give ok to paint the trunk

Pics are dry fit only, the latch still needs to be screwed on to pull it down, but so far very impressed with the fitment and panel gaps

Believe im the first in Aus with this trunk......woot woot

Trunk makes the car look alot cleaner imo

And for those that will cry "aero", i dont track, i just get stuck in traffic.......with the occasional mountain blast

photo5.jpg

That's not a car - - - that's a stealth fighter!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great.

thanks guys

im really liking the wingless look, ive always wanted to do it since buying the car

re exhaust, i took a big gamble buying this sight unseen, but upon opening the box was very impressed with the welds and overall quality

the tips are from garage active

ti_21.jpg

painted pics.......

zele skirt fitment is ok, they are a little short on the ends, but sit very flush with the guards

photo2-1.jpg

photo3-1.jpg

photo4-1.jpg

photo5-1.jpg

photo7.jpg

we couldnt re-use the bump stops - with them mounted you really needed to slam the boot hard to depress them and get the lock to latch. I just need to be careful closing the boot on windy days

photo9.jpg

tips are from garage active

the exhaust was made by GZY in mainland China and bought it direct from them with no markup

i was lucky that they had one in stock otherwise they will only manufacture in bulk numbers, and they do for a some well known tuners/brands

afaik they are out of stock now

wheels are 21x10.5f and 11.5r

Edited by domino_z

is it possible to cut/file down the bump rubbers so they are smaller but can still be used? might be a good idea if possible.

love the overall look but surprised about the skirt fitment. that little step at the front would annoy the hell out of me.

with the wheels, boot etc the car now looks more like an exotic. :)

is it possible to cut/file down the bump rubbers so they are smaller but can still be used? might be a good idea if possible.

love the overall look but surprised about the skirt fitment. that little step at the front would annoy the hell out of me.

with the wheels, boot etc the car now looks more like an exotic. :)

i too was suprised with the fitment, afterall these are expensive genuine zele japanese made parts

but ive been told they're all the same, and looking at the bowed out sides of the stillen skirts, im glad i went with the zeles

Edited by domino_z

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...